Friday, September 30, 2011

Revisiting America

Ketchican's weather is mild by Alaskan standards. An average temperature is 45 degrees with little snow. The average rainfall per year is a total of 160 inches, raining 224 days to reach this total. People say that if you can't see the top of Deer Mountain it's raining, and if you can see the top it's about to rain. This doesn't dampen the spirits of the residents or visitors here because Ketchican is an ideal city to wander about. Strolling along the waterfront there are quaint buildings, totem poles even in front of Victorian homes, Ketchican Creek running through the town, summer and spring watching the salmon run, shops with native crafts, jewelry, basketry.
On summer days cruise ships will unload as many as 10,000 tourists, transforming the town into a thriving business venture, then evening comes, the streets empty, and the ships move on to the next port.

Revisiting America

Ketchican lies in what has got to be the world's least likely spots for a city.
A first impression might be that the city is built on stilts, half over the water and half on the steep mountainside. Located on an island, its buildings are jammed against a mountain,thick with trees, and strung along the water front.
There are twenty miles of roads, not counting city streets.
Ketchican has been given many nicknames, "first city of Alaska," "Salmon Capitol of the World,""Birthplace of Alaskan Pulp Industry," and "Totemland."
Nearly all of Southeast Alaska, stretching 500 miles from Ketchican to Yakutat, is in the Tongass National forest. The towns sit in small pockets of private land surrounded by 17 million acres of land controlled by the U.S. Forest Service-an area nearly as large as the state of Maine, and considerably larger than any other national forest or national park in the United States. The vast majority of the land has never been logged and with the decline of the logging industry preserves one of the world's great temperate rainforests in its virgin state. A treasure to be enjoyed by all.

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Revisiting America

One of the really fun parts of the trip is meeting my new landlords at each new place.  Nicole and James Church are from California and own an orchard.  That's all I know at this point but you'll know more about them in time.  I do know they are very keen about their accomodations being acceptable to their renters.  Haven't found anything lacking so far, except maybe a rolling pin and I may not have discovered it yet. 
The apartment is upstairs which gives me a good view of the water and I can clearly see float planes landing and taking off, as well as other ships in the channel.  Their property is very wooded, but with several covered seating areas as well as cooking facilities outside.  I have a large bedroom, two queen beds, several chests of drawers, big closet, foyer with a closet with washer-dryer and other cleaning necessities, large bath with shower, big kitchen, fully equipped, big table in the eating area and aquite adequate living area.  TV in living and bedroom areas, clocks everywhere, night lights, wonderful other lightning, sometimes lacking in lots of places.  You get the idea, what more could I need.  Oh, and a corner, gas, fireplace, which makes for cozy.

Revisiting America

In fact, there is no way you can get to Ketchican except by water.  You can fly in to Gravina Island, but you still have to take a ferry across the sound to get to town.
Hence, the ferry ride, which was quite nice actually. 
The wait to board the ferry was the hardest part eventhough I didn't have to check out of my motet until noon, but I'm finding out, no one seems to be in a hurry.  Finally boarded the ferry around 4:30 after walking around the Fairhaven area, full of shops and restaurants, and considered to be "Bellingham" by some. 
The MVColumbia was a nice, big, cruise ship, with my car on board. 
The Alaska Marine Highway System, with an eleven-ship-fleet, serves a 3500- mile route and 33 ports, with an estimated 320,000 passengers and 97,000 vehicles anually.  This ship can carry 499 passengers and 134 twenty foot vehicles.  There are 45 four-berth cabins and 59 two-berth cabins including 3 ADA cabins(I don't know what that means so I really shouldn't mention it except the brochure did).  There was a cafe, open 24 hours a day, full service dining room, cocktail lounge, movie theater, gift shop, a video arcade, ice and vending machines, lockers and showers for walk-ons, laundry facilities, and all staterooms with private restroom and shower facilities.  A forward lounge on the boat deck as well as an observation lounge on the cabin deck, and an enclosed, heated solarium with the most comfortable easy chairs to sit and enjoy the scenery.  What more can you ask?  And the food was quite good.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Revisiting America

I'm moved to tears most mornings when I walk.  It's like watching a slide show, the scenery changing every few seconds, the clouds moving, making  the sun shine differently on a mountain top, being able to see such distances, cool breezes blowing, and several mornings temps in the upper twenties.  What more can you ask.
My last day in Twin Bridges was not busy, even though I hadn't done much toward packing, etc:.  So, Marsha was going to Butte and asked me to go along for the ride  There was a sale at Herberger's, similar to our Belk, and she had sale coupons.  We went a different route than interstate and the scenery was awesome, yet different than what I'd seen anywhere.  Anyway, we shopped,  another trip to Walmart, then supper at a very nice restaurant, home the interstate route, and tackled my car-loading, with the help of Marsha, and set my clock for five the next morning.
I certainly won't go into detail about leaving because it's the same each time.  My stay has been great, I've met such wonderful people, the town of Twin Bridges has much to offer, and I will miss being there.
I took I-90 West and arrived in Moses Lake, Washington around 4:00 p.m.  which was enough driving for the day and too, realizing I'm going to be a day early catching the ferry to Ketchican. 
Just a half-day driving got me to Bellingham.  I checked out the ferry terminal, found a nice Best Western and settled in for the rest of the day.  Nice restaurant so I didn't have to drive anywhere for supper.
I'm really wondering what the ferry will be like.  The ticket guy said bring plenty of reading material, snacks, and walking shoes, so it looks like my 32 hours will lag a little.  It will be something I haven't done before and it is the way of getting from point A to B, rather than driving the road to Prince Rupert, against my landlady's advice.  Since I'm booked round-trip I'll at least know what to expect on the return trip. I didn't check on Internet-WIFY connections, so I have no idea if I will be able to use my computer.  But, I'll be ready for a fresh start when I get settled in Ketchican.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Revisiting America

Yesterday I met Bill Nicholls at the Museum, it's closed now but Joy Day, sorta in charge of the library and a doer in the town, arranged to open it and have Bill meet me there.  He's 92 years old, very bright and articulate, and knows the history of Twin Bridges and the area quite well.  I will spend more time about him in the book, but we were able to talk for awhile and and I enjoyed the many exhibits in the building,  which in itself has quite a history.
Then I was able to meet Jerry Kustich, partner of Glenn Brackett, at Sweetgrass Rods. I'll let the paragraph on their brochure describe Jerry.  Can be found on a stream testing anything from flies to waders to pentagonal bamboo designs, he has become an advocate for public access to Montana's rivers.  Author, writer, devoted environmentalist, rod designer, and dedicated angler, he spends much time on the road as a fly fishing ambassador lecturing on and representing the ideals for which all serious fly anglers stand.  Most interesting person, well educated, former teacher, painter, and goes by their motto," fishing makes us better rod builders. 
After meeting these two owners of Sweetgrass Rods, I can see where their "Promise" comes from.  "Our rods will always lead to water, enlighten your life, enliven your fishing, and heal your spirit when it is ailing."  And I do have an autographed copy of Jerry's book, "At the Rivers's Edge", which I can hardly wait to read.
I will leave tomorrow for Bellingham, Washington to leave on the Ferry, Friday, for Ketchican.  I have no idea about Internet access, WIFY, or anything like that on the Ferry, so I'm not sure when I will blog next.
You're so well aware, already, that there is no schedule for my blogging. 
This has been my shortest stay anywhere and why I ever thought there would be less to do and write about, I don't know.  It has been short, but great.  I will be in Alaska a full month though, arriving on Sunday, Sept. 25th, and leaving Wednesday, October 26.  UNTIL---------------------------  

Revisiting America

where was I when it disappeared?  I think I was saying it was one of the most picturesque scenes I've seen on the trip.  We talked for several hours non-stop and I left with an autographed copy of her book, "Charles and Me".  Her suggestion was to have me come back and have some pictures made at the schoolhouse that I could use for our book.  She mentioned a friend photographer but not sure if she was in town.  Hope that works out, so far it hasn't, but I'm satisfied that I was able to meet and spend time with her.

Revisiting America

So many people had asked me, "Are you going to meet Pat Shannon"?  My answer was, always, if the situation presents itself.  I had already checked out her book from the library about she and Charles, had been in the Weaving Shop and Norman, the owner, said she came in there just about every day, and this being such a small town I felt like she would know that I was in town and would like to meet her.  I did call and she said she had been expecting me to call so we decided on Friday at 2:00.  She gave very good directions because the last lag was on a dirt road, and the old school house was a little hard to see being so far off the road. 
Rather than go empty handed I went to the grocery and concocted a fruit basket with some sweet treats and was on my way.  What a gracious and interesting lady.  And I'll have to say the library was one of the most beautiful rooms I've ever seen.  Very tall ceilings, this was formerly a one-room school house, the walls lined with mahogany bookshelves, several seating arrangements, tables with books and momentoes, a bath, small kitchenette, and a porch that overlooked the most beautiful river and tree-banks, and her small log cottage in the distance.  It was truly a most

Revisiting America

Marsha (my landlady) and I spent Thursday the 15th in Bozeman.  She had a Dr.'s appointment and needed supplies for the motel.  We left around 9:00, went through Ennis and ate breakfast, my second since I waked up at 3:00 and had eaten around 4:00, then to her appointment.  We were scheduled for pedicures and manicures in the mall for around 2:00, and there being a salon nearby I got a quick hair trim.  With all that done we went to Costco( like Sam's) then Walmart, even a Bed, Bath and Beyond, and finally a wonderful supper at a Mexican restaurant. This was my fourth time in Bozeman and it's such a nice town, so clean and open,  downtown still buzzing, and I've heard around 40,000 people, and something for everyone.  We were both a little weary after the day so that's what I get for not walking and storing up that energy.

Monday, September 19, 2011

Revisiting America

A very  interesting day, Thursday September 14.  Visited  the art gallery here that displays work of local artists including  paintings, weavings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry, quilting, quite nice for such a small town and  they offer many classes of interest to people here.  There are lectures also on different subjects.
Then met Joy Day at Novich Insurance Agency who oversees the Library and she is going to make contact with someone to be there with me on Monday to share about the exhibits.
There are so many talented people doing so many interesting things here.  Visited the Sweetgrass Rod Company and met with the owner, Glenn Burkett, who is known internationally for making Bamboo rods.  He came to this area many years ago, and with a partner started R.L. Winston Rod Company, sold it six years ago and began the Sweetgrass company.  We talked as he worked which happens all the time because they have so many visitors, he said.  He travels to Mainland China twice yearly to select the particular species of bamboo, the rods never break, might began 8-10 rods in a two to three day period, a 6 to 8 month,usually, period from order to finished product, the rods get better with use and age, internationally sold, and this could be the rod-building center of the world.  I was fascinated  after seeing only several steps in the process.  Glenn has quite a crew working with him including a son, Wade, Jerry Kustich who I didn't meet, but will because he has written several books of interest that I should know about, Jason, Fox, Dave Delisi, Mike Watson, Dana Escott, Sam Drukman, Mike Watson, all of these people with different areas of expertise, that work under the guidance of Glenn. 
He is an inspiration in his shop as well as throughout the local community and says his most sacred duty is to preserve the legacy by teaching others the many lessons involved in building bamboo rods

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Revisiting America

My walking route  is through the County Fairgrounds facility, alongside the Beaverhead River, with several different mountain ranges in the distance.  This area has many barns, sheds, stables, stalls, show arenas with bleachers, play area for kids, the town softball fields with bleachers, buildings for inside exhibits, etc: and all so beautifully maintained.  A good three-mile walk to a certain point and back.  See very few walkers or dogs and no horses, bikes, or skate-boarders.  In fact very few people out early in the day.
School has started and there are grades K-12 which surprised me for a town so small, but Marsha said no one would agree to consolidate.  Understandable.  Beautiful almost new school and facilities, football fields, etc:
Visited the Senior Center lunch get-to-gether yesterday at the Wagon Wheel restaurant, where they meet Tuesday's and Friday's.  Everything set up for the group in a separate room, and their usual crowd is around 20.  Five dollar donation and everyone eats, visits, and leaves.  They have guest speakers occasionally but mostly just an outing for everyone.  The meal yesterday was a choice of two different kinds of soup, a salad, Chicken and Noodle casserole, rolls, chocolate cake for dessert.  Very good, and tasty, and for $5.00.
Someone said, " you need to sit by Walt Shular, and I did.  In our conversation he shared that he took Kuralt fishing one time.  But the best part was the "patter" between Walt and Harold Smail.  They could have easily been "stand-up" comics in a show.  Their quips back and forth with one another kept me laughing.
Changed gears, and clothes, and left around 4:00 p.m. going to Bozeman to Montana State University to hear a lecture by Dr. Maya Angelou.  A very large crowd in attendance, and a most appreciative audience.
I didn't realize she was quite so frail, not in looks, but needing assistance to walk on stage, etc:  I've always loved her speaking voice, and she is quite a joker and teaser in her delivery.  But, you really had to listen closely to catch all the little nuances.  It was a beautiful hour though and a reminder of the influence we each make in our journey.  Her idea came from the book of Genesis where God put the rainbow in the sky and that we all have many rainbows and we can be that hope and encouragement someone needs. 
The program began with a wonderful Jazz Quintet and singer, Jeni Fleming.  Absolutely great music.  They would be competition for anyone anywhere.  I had hoped they would close the program as well, but didn't.
Back over the mountains and home by 11:00.  So glad Pat and Fred, and Jo Anne thought of me when the tickets became available.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Revisiting America

My landlords are dear people-Marsha, husband Don, Matt, wife and two sons, and a daughter Robin in Texas.  They are so conscientious about there business, and I almost have to keep the door locked to keep Marsha from coming in and cleaning every hour.  She does the cleaning, booking, cooking for those that are here for extended fishing trips, anything that needs doing, and of course Don is busy with her when he's not a guide for someone fishing.  Matt is the mainstay of the Outfitter-Guide-Fishing service which is the reason so many people visit this area.  They have regulars that come every year.  So, in season they are quite busy. Hopefully Marsha and I are going to get a chance to do something, together, away from the business, before I leave.
Wouldn't you consider the ideal temperature, 40's early morning, 70's around noon and early afternoon, 50's late afternoon and evening?  That has been the case since I've been here.  Perfect for me.  Not a drop of rain in sight, nor predicted.  But extremely dry everyone says and rain is needed.
RUBY VALLEY PARISH, CHURCH OF THE VALLEY, MINISTERS:  ALL THE PEOPLE, PASTOR, BEN J. NARDI.  I like the way the ministers are named, all of us.  And from the looks of the bulletin and the many service organizations listed in a brochure from the library, that is a true statement for this small town.  A very small crowd in church and only one young person, but a lively group of people.  They seemed so excited to be there and be a part of the ministry of the church. Cake and coffee were served after the service and I was able to meet most of the congregation.
I'm amazed at the scope of volunteer and service organizations in this town;  RV service groups, Merchant
groups, Family assistance, Childcare, Military (a nice memorial in the center of town), Books and History groups, Youth activities, Alcohol and Drug Abuse, Education, Senior activities, I'll be attending one of their luncheon meetings today, Riding and Rodeo activities, Technology, Masonic, Nature and Outdoor activities.
Someone responsible for pushing and planning for each of these endeavors.  That takes a lot of people.
There is a Mayor, and five City Councilman.  I haven't seen a policeman, so I don't think there is even one here.  What a great commentary for the town.
 

Revisiting America

 There have been so many coincidences on this trip.  Another being an e-mail from nephew John Schell, a lawyer,  living in D.C. many years, a "hiker", an all-around great person, father, husband, people -person.  "Lou, guess what, I'll be in Bozeman, Montana, September 9, and leave for home on the 10th."
I was invited to the home of his friend and hiking partner, Steve Schnee and wife Jean for a get-together and dinner Friday the 9th.  I also met Clark, Steven, and Modi.  The five men have hiked together many times, this time in Yellowstone, and the Tetons.  What a nice gathering of talented, likable men and Steve's lovely family, wife Jean, daughters, son-in-law and grandson.  The meal was absolutely wonderfully prepared and served by Jean after her being in attendance at a funeral all afternoon, a friend of the family.  She seemed tireless.  I was such a good time.  What an opportunity to make new friends and see Johnny.
I had make reservations to stay in Livingston, so drove on there after the get-to-gether, getting there around 10:00 p.m., making it much closer for my drive to Clyde Park the next morning.
Ellene and I couldn't quite remember the year, we think around 1979, when we came to Clyde Park, Montana and spent the week at the G Bar M ranch, along with Cindy Craig, our leader, Kay Odom, Fletcher( driver extraordinaire) and 8 other GA girls.  I re-visited this ranch, finding the son, Mike, the owner-manager of the ranch who was around 10 or 12  years old at the time we visited so many years ago.  His father, George, had died just three weeks ago, so it was hard for him to talk about a lot of things.  Took a lot of pictures which are quite a different view of things because when we were there that December every thing was covered in snow.  One of the popular things for ladies in this area is quilting so the new lodge, built since we were there, was hosting 18 ladies who come twice a year to quilt, have clinics, and be together.  I said my good-byes and drove back to Twin Bridges, remembering what a wonderful time we had that December.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Revisiting America

Twin Bridges is sorta a "main street" town, maybe 10 blocks long, but side streets on either side of main for two or three blocks.  Some buildings are closed and then some businesses don't open every day.  Several already closed for the winter season.  But I'm right on main street, my motel right next to the sidewalk and then the street, so I can't make a misstep.  There is lots of traffic through here, starting very early and into the night.  There is every thing you need here including a small medical clinic. 
Visited the library which is very nice and checked out several books on the Lewis and Clark expedition as well as the book Kuralt's companion wrote, "Charles and Me", which was a quick read but very interesting.
I had forgotten the history of the Lewis and Clark expedition but there is so much here to remind you.
President Thomas Jefferson realized his dream when he sent these two to explore the lands acquired under the Louisiana Purchase in 1803.  They, along with 45 men, set out in May, 1804 and were commissioned to map the land, hold diplomatic councils with native peoples  study and record everything regarding plants, animals, minerals, soil, and native ways of life.  Together they logged more than 8,000 miles, mapped a swatch of the Rockies and the courses of the Missouri and Columbia rivers,  and wrote the first scientific descriptions of 178 plants and 122 animals. 
This major achievement of crossing the North American continent from the Mississippi to the Pacific by way of the Missouri and Columbia river systems succeeded largely because of the friendship of these two people as well as their talents, abilities, and multiple qualifications. each complimenting the other.

Revisiting America

Dillion is the home of the Beaverhead County Fair, Montana's biggest weekend, and after walking around town, looking in shops, eating lunch, we went to the Fair.  It was big!  I haven't seen that many exhibits ever!  Every kind of livestock imaginable, (how do you judge 50 rabbits), sewing, canning, photography, woodworking, serious art work, baking, etc:  a carnival, and the Jaycees PRCA Rodeo  It was all worth the $5.00 we donated to see everything.  We didn't stay for the rodeo that night but came home and reserved a table at The Old Hotel here in Twin Bridges, known for its food and impeccable service.  The restaurant, housed in one of the oldest buildings in Twin Bridges is a 'bed and breakfast" also.  The food was wonderful and our waitresses were young, adorable ladies.  Janie, the whole affair reminded me so much of "Augusts" in New Orleans.
Saturday, we went to the town of Ennis, about 26 miles from here, to see what a Fly Fishing Festival would offer.  It's assumed that Lewis and Clark and some of their party came through Ennis on their journey.  The gold rush in 1863, in Alder Gulch, brought William Ennis to the area who homesteaded a site along the Madison River that later became the town of Ennis.  It's a smaller town than Dillon but no less active, quaint, and a town of old and new buildings and businesses.  Again, it was fun to go in and out the shops, visited the bank where Matt worked, talked with the Senior Vice-President who said she will sponsor a book-signing for us, visited the many booths set up on the town square related to the Festival.  A clean, well-kept town and a wonderful mix of the old and new. 
We did watch some of the fly-fishing tournament.  And, happened to eat lunch at the G Bar Saloon, recommended by someone at the Farmer's Market when we first got in to town, and got to watch the last half of Auburn's game, what a thriller.  Some of the young people we have met in eateries and other stores have cornered the market on niceness and accomodating people.  It's so wonderful to see that everywhere you go.
We stopped in Virginia City, the oldest town, also capital of the territory before it became a state.  Old, old, but so interesting.  Didn't stay too long there, sorta anxious to get home and do nothing.  I did cook a meal for us that night. 
Knew we wouldn't be able to go to church and get Jo Anne to the airport in time, so we leisurely got ready, packed up, and after checking in at the airport, about an hour and a half away in Belgrade, ate a breakfast at the airport restaurant.  Hated to say goodbye to Jo Anne because we never know how long it will be until the next visit.  But we know we spent a couple of days enjoying one another and  made  good use of our time together. 

Revisiting america

Jo Anne and I had a sweet reunion, not having seen one another for quite a few years.  She's my lovely neice from California, a school teacher, the oldest child of my sister Jo Ethel, married to Russell, mother of one son, Brian, and he has a lovely wife, Noosha.
And what a pleasure to meet Jo Anne's friends, Fred and Pat Cornelious, both retired school teachers, that Jo Anne had taught with in California.
The scenery on the drive to Twin Bridges was just breathtaking, and several times I just wanted to stop, sit, and look for awhile.
I was anxious to get to Twin Bridges though, and landlady Marsha Greenmore was waiting for me to arrive.  Such a nice lady, so accomodating, and after seeing how much stuff we each had, offered another room that was available.  That did work quite well for both of us, we were less crowded but still able to be together.
My first foray is always to the grocery store, and who should spot our Alabama license plate but a nice young man from Birmingham Alabama, Matt Hill, and wife Susanna, she is from this area.  Naturally we talked a bit and found out about each other.  Matt is a Loan Officer with First Madison Valley Bank and Susanna is with the Madisonian , the Ennis, Montana weekly newspaper.  (Hope she'll help set up an interview).  Anyway, nice couple and I hope I see them again. 
Our next decision was to decide what we would do the two days we had to explore the area.
Dillon, Montana, about twenty miles from Twin Bridges, is in Beaverhead County, in the southwest corner of Montana, surrounded on three sides by the Continental Divide, the largest county in Montana, and the land area consists of deep basins separated by towering mountain ranges.  Dillon is the county seat and major trading area for over 13,000 people in Beaverhead and western Madison counties.  It's the headquarters of the Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest, the Dillon Field Office of the Bureau of Land Management, the University of Montana Western, and the National Franchise Office of Great Harvest Bread Company.  Dillon also forms the center of Montana's largest cattle and hay producing areas, and is one of Montana's top agricultural centers.  Plus, dozens of mountain lakes, great  fishing rivers and streams, abundant wildlife,
hiking and snowmobile trails, ghost towns to visit, places to dig for crystals, and the best fisheries anywhere, just ask the people who return year after year to fish.

Revisiting America

I do begin with an apology to all my Ely friends and offer an excuse however legitimate.  I've started blogging several times only to have it just disappear, not because I've done something wrong, but because my access weakens and my blog is gone.  This will be an attempt to catch up and hope all will go well as I blog.
My first night out after leaving Ely became an adventure in itself, trying to find a place to stay.  All around Bismark, at least a hundred miles in every direction,  the motels were booked.  The young man at one of the motels where I stopped said FEMA personnel, National Guard, etc: were out in force because of the flooding and fires prior to the flooding.  Anyway he called the Prarie Knights Casino on an Indian reservation and booked me a room eventhough it meant going almost fifty miles out of the way.
A beautiful high-end resort and casino but I only saw the lobby and my room.  It was late and I was a little anxious about the whole thing.
The next morning was so foggy I had to actually follow a car out of the parking lot to find my was back to the main highway..
My time on the road certainly wasn't wasted, I make good time, but it was a rather long two days.  My next night I spent in Livingston, Montana, very close to Bozeman, but it was late and I absolutely couldn't go any further, especially couldn't go in on Jo Anne's friends unannounced.
My Onstar is absolutely marvelous.  They probably say each time we connect, "here is that crazy Alabama lady, who wants to deal with her"?  They have worn out the phrase, "you have left the planned route", but deal with me until I'm on track again.  I know it's nothing personal.