I was so disappointed to wake up the morning of November 18, in Socorro, New Mexico, not feeling well, certainly not feeling good to participate in any of the activities of the Crane Festival(more about that in the book). This is an annual happening with hundreds of people involved-tours, lectures, movies, receptions, many activities having to do with the crane population and migration. But how lucky can you be, one or two days of not feeling well out of the many months traveling. No way I could complain, so I packed my things and began the trip home.
Had planned all along to find I-10 for easy traveling, but Onstar routed me differently and I didn't change because this would be my opportunity to see a different part of the country. And, it was different. Two-lane roads, four-lane roads, small towns, beautiful scenery.
Stayed a night on the road and got to Janie's in Austin. Texas late afternoon. Good to see her but a little disappointed that she is still not able to get around well at all. But that didn't hamper our visit. It was good to see where she lived, meet some of her friends, and to be able top see her son Davis, Ann, boys, Josh and Jacob. Pictures never do justice to boys that age. They are blonde-tow-headed, active boys and very well-behaved. It was so good to be with them.
November 22, 2011, 12:00 noon was the time frame for my arriving, but traffic caused me to be a little late(12:15), but again I was greeted by family, friends, balloons, banners, and a sign on the library marquee, "Welcome home, Miss Lou, we missed you, neighbor". For those that don't know, my house is directly across the road from the Washington County Public Library, easy to find and give directions to.
Thanksgiving was just that, a time of giving thanks, being together with family and friends, eating wonderful food, HOME. Wouldn't trade that decision with anything, that I chose to be home for Thanksgiving, eventhough it meant a shorter stay in New Mexico.
And now, I pray for your prayers for me, I know you've done that all year, and for patience as we begin this new experience, writing a book.
We've had so much inquiry, encouragement, offers of writing expertise, and good wishes, it's like, "how can we fail".
And I'll have to say again, thanks so much for being a part of my adventure.
Monday, January 2, 2012
Sunday, January 1, 2012
Revisiting America
First Baptist Church Taos was a block from my house, but rain necessitated my driving to church. Beautiful, simple inside, maybe 20 people in all. Several young couples, singles, but the rest older couples. Good music, with a piano and songs from the hymnal. The pianist was Dr. Ellen Warren, general practitioner, so nice to talk to and a very popular doctor in town, from comments made by others when I mentioned her name.
My morning walk the next day ended with me slipping and falling on the ice and thankfully I didn't break anything or have to limp home. Just several scratches on one hand and of course, a good jar all over. A reminder that I needed to watch carefully where I'm stepping which is so hard to do as you're walking and trying to take in the scenery too.
Did have a chance to visit the Sage Gallery that I had mentioned earlier and got a card, a small sample of painting by Barbara Bartels. Was able to see some of the Mabel Dodge Luhan house. It is a "bed and breakfast" and they were busy checking in a group of students so I poked around by myself. The location makes up all that might be lacking in the house, it is old, but beautiful. The name, "Illusions" is a perfect name for the house, and of course there's a wonderful story about Mabel Dodge Luhan, the house, and her reason for being in Taos.
I had been curious about a particular restaurant called, "Lambert's" and had to find out if it at all resembled the Lambert's in Foley, Alabama. Well, it didn't. It was a beautiful, older, remodeled building, quite elegant, white cloths on the tables, crystal and china, beautiful lighting, and impeccable service. My splurge was a filet mignon, cooked perfectly, potatoes thinly sliced, in a sauce, and served like a slice of pie, asparagus, woncerful bread, and after telling about my trip, which everyone in the restaurant was interested in, a complimentary chocolate mousse dessert. Forgot the salad, with the house dressing, was as good as all the rest of the meal.
My plans to leave Taos on Wednesday, November 16, by 10:00 a.m. were delayed because I slept later than I should have, and it took longer to pack the car, which I would be doing for the last time, a little sad to think about that.
My landlady was not there when I left, she and daughter and son-in-law manage other properties, but did get to tell Christie and Ron goodbye.
No particular time schedule, but several places to visit that are mentioned in Kuralt's book.
Georgia O'Keefe, a famous painter, lived for a while at the Ghost Ranch, in Abiqui not far from Espanola, so I spent some time there, on to Chimayo, a beautiful small town, with a famous church, then arriving in Sante Fe after dark which was not a good idea but did find a good motel without too much trouble.
On to Albuquerque, not too early the next morning. Such a pretty town, and day's worth of things to see and do, but I limited myself to several things mentioned in the book. A particular men's hat shop that made hats by request and order was visited by and Kuralt, and me. I did try on some of the hats and had my picture made in one. Nice men working there who had met Kuralt and not sure if he bought a hat. Then on to "Old Town" which was the old town, but now is maintained as a shopping mecca, naturally an old church,famous at one time,
Went through Belen, New Mexico but couldn't find the barbershop or any of the people in the book. Quite a large town, but still many old, preserved buildings. Really wanted to spend time there, but didn't feel like I had the time.
Arrived in Socorro around 4:00 in the afternoon and was lucky to find a room because of the "Crane(bird)Festival.
My morning walk the next day ended with me slipping and falling on the ice and thankfully I didn't break anything or have to limp home. Just several scratches on one hand and of course, a good jar all over. A reminder that I needed to watch carefully where I'm stepping which is so hard to do as you're walking and trying to take in the scenery too.
Did have a chance to visit the Sage Gallery that I had mentioned earlier and got a card, a small sample of painting by Barbara Bartels. Was able to see some of the Mabel Dodge Luhan house. It is a "bed and breakfast" and they were busy checking in a group of students so I poked around by myself. The location makes up all that might be lacking in the house, it is old, but beautiful. The name, "Illusions" is a perfect name for the house, and of course there's a wonderful story about Mabel Dodge Luhan, the house, and her reason for being in Taos.
I had been curious about a particular restaurant called, "Lambert's" and had to find out if it at all resembled the Lambert's in Foley, Alabama. Well, it didn't. It was a beautiful, older, remodeled building, quite elegant, white cloths on the tables, crystal and china, beautiful lighting, and impeccable service. My splurge was a filet mignon, cooked perfectly, potatoes thinly sliced, in a sauce, and served like a slice of pie, asparagus, woncerful bread, and after telling about my trip, which everyone in the restaurant was interested in, a complimentary chocolate mousse dessert. Forgot the salad, with the house dressing, was as good as all the rest of the meal.
My plans to leave Taos on Wednesday, November 16, by 10:00 a.m. were delayed because I slept later than I should have, and it took longer to pack the car, which I would be doing for the last time, a little sad to think about that.
My landlady was not there when I left, she and daughter and son-in-law manage other properties, but did get to tell Christie and Ron goodbye.
No particular time schedule, but several places to visit that are mentioned in Kuralt's book.
Georgia O'Keefe, a famous painter, lived for a while at the Ghost Ranch, in Abiqui not far from Espanola, so I spent some time there, on to Chimayo, a beautiful small town, with a famous church, then arriving in Sante Fe after dark which was not a good idea but did find a good motel without too much trouble.
On to Albuquerque, not too early the next morning. Such a pretty town, and day's worth of things to see and do, but I limited myself to several things mentioned in the book. A particular men's hat shop that made hats by request and order was visited by and Kuralt, and me. I did try on some of the hats and had my picture made in one. Nice men working there who had met Kuralt and not sure if he bought a hat. Then on to "Old Town" which was the old town, but now is maintained as a shopping mecca, naturally an old church,famous at one time,
Went through Belen, New Mexico but couldn't find the barbershop or any of the people in the book. Quite a large town, but still many old, preserved buildings. Really wanted to spend time there, but didn't feel like I had the time.
Arrived in Socorro around 4:00 in the afternoon and was lucky to find a room because of the "Crane(bird)Festival.
Revisiting America
I do hope I haven't lost all my readers because I so abruptly stopped blogging.
I assure you it was not intentional, and I do apologize for my "whatever"; laziness, excitement of coming home, not sure how I wanted to close out the adventure, all of the above and more.
I will try to finish the Taos experience and "homecoming". It is January 1, 2012, and I plan, in several weeks, to begin writing the book. Several things are on my calender, then I want a clean slate, and time to recall, revisit, and begin. I'm excited, but very apprehensive, and feeling the pressure of what lies ahead. But, I've had so many encouraging words and offers of help in any way, so it must be done.
November 7, taking my usual morning walk, I met Chris Kane, she was walking her dog, and after talking, with the usual questions, "what are you doing in Taos?, etc: she suggested I call the newspaper and set up an interview. Well, I did that and was pleasantly surprised to have the interview set up for Wednesday, the 9th. Delightful lady, Teresa Dovalpage, Ph.D, Spanish instructor at University, New Mexico, Taos, a native of Cuba, but in the states for many years, came to my casita and we talked for hours. Not sure of a printing date, but I've since received a copy of the article,from my landlady, since comming home. Very nice re-count of the trip.
November 8th, and everything covered in snow, must be 4 to 5 inches deep, bright sun-shiny, trees glistening, everything quiet and hushed, and to me, this dictated a "stay-in" day for fear of a fall or some other catastrophe.
The beauty of a snow here is that it stays around awhile, eventhough its sunny, it's cold enough to keep it from melting. It is so beautiful.
Realizing my time in Taos was very limited I made a list of things I hadn't seen that needed to be visited.
Los Comadras Women's Cooperative Gallery had a wonderful selection of jewelry, sculpture, paintings, representing many women artists of the community. Geraldine Liermann was "manning" the store that particular day and had a beautiful display of Christmas gourds she had painted. I only bought a small one, they were rather expensive.
This is a walking spree so I visited several more galleries, Lasko Gallery, met Geoffery Lasko, artist and printmaker, easy to talk to, very talented, interested in my trip. The Hulse-Warman Gallery with more modern works, the Brodsky Bookshop, owned by Rick Smith, from Baton Rouge, La, nice to talk to about family, football, and comments about writing my book.
A lunch break, then a ride to the "Red Willow Farmer's Market, housed at this time of year, but quite a large endeavor in the spring and summer months. Visited the Town Hall, Library, San Francisco de Asis Church, one of the most photographed in our country, Tony Reyna's shop with all kinds of Indian artifacts, met Jack Hill in the shop who has his creative work in stone and steel visible around town, then revisited Dannie Townsend in the clothing shop, The Spotted Bear, I'm sure there's a reason for that name, and talked awhile. I'm still amazed that shop owners are so willing to just sit and talk, and never seem in a hurry.
Continued visiting the next day. A ride back to the Rio Grande River Bridge, I came over the bridge coming to Taos but was too eager to get to Taos that I. didn't stop and take pictures. This is another scenic spot that is photographed often, and it is beautiful.
Many of these places I'm mentioning will be explained in more detail in the book, and with pictures,I hope.
I assure you it was not intentional, and I do apologize for my "whatever"; laziness, excitement of coming home, not sure how I wanted to close out the adventure, all of the above and more.
I will try to finish the Taos experience and "homecoming". It is January 1, 2012, and I plan, in several weeks, to begin writing the book. Several things are on my calender, then I want a clean slate, and time to recall, revisit, and begin. I'm excited, but very apprehensive, and feeling the pressure of what lies ahead. But, I've had so many encouraging words and offers of help in any way, so it must be done.
November 7, taking my usual morning walk, I met Chris Kane, she was walking her dog, and after talking, with the usual questions, "what are you doing in Taos?, etc: she suggested I call the newspaper and set up an interview. Well, I did that and was pleasantly surprised to have the interview set up for Wednesday, the 9th. Delightful lady, Teresa Dovalpage, Ph.D, Spanish instructor at University, New Mexico, Taos, a native of Cuba, but in the states for many years, came to my casita and we talked for hours. Not sure of a printing date, but I've since received a copy of the article,from my landlady, since comming home. Very nice re-count of the trip.
November 8th, and everything covered in snow, must be 4 to 5 inches deep, bright sun-shiny, trees glistening, everything quiet and hushed, and to me, this dictated a "stay-in" day for fear of a fall or some other catastrophe.
The beauty of a snow here is that it stays around awhile, eventhough its sunny, it's cold enough to keep it from melting. It is so beautiful.
Realizing my time in Taos was very limited I made a list of things I hadn't seen that needed to be visited.
Los Comadras Women's Cooperative Gallery had a wonderful selection of jewelry, sculpture, paintings, representing many women artists of the community. Geraldine Liermann was "manning" the store that particular day and had a beautiful display of Christmas gourds she had painted. I only bought a small one, they were rather expensive.
This is a walking spree so I visited several more galleries, Lasko Gallery, met Geoffery Lasko, artist and printmaker, easy to talk to, very talented, interested in my trip. The Hulse-Warman Gallery with more modern works, the Brodsky Bookshop, owned by Rick Smith, from Baton Rouge, La, nice to talk to about family, football, and comments about writing my book.
A lunch break, then a ride to the "Red Willow Farmer's Market, housed at this time of year, but quite a large endeavor in the spring and summer months. Visited the Town Hall, Library, San Francisco de Asis Church, one of the most photographed in our country, Tony Reyna's shop with all kinds of Indian artifacts, met Jack Hill in the shop who has his creative work in stone and steel visible around town, then revisited Dannie Townsend in the clothing shop, The Spotted Bear, I'm sure there's a reason for that name, and talked awhile. I'm still amazed that shop owners are so willing to just sit and talk, and never seem in a hurry.
Continued visiting the next day. A ride back to the Rio Grande River Bridge, I came over the bridge coming to Taos but was too eager to get to Taos that I. didn't stop and take pictures. This is another scenic spot that is photographed often, and it is beautiful.
Many of these places I'm mentioning will be explained in more detail in the book, and with pictures,I hope.
Monday, November 7, 2011
Revisiting America
I'm sure most towns have interesting, unusual characters that have played a part in their history and one of these in Taos was Long John Dunn, an entrepreneur, who now has a bridge and area of town named for him. Getting to town in the early 20th century wasn't easy, only one road to get in and out of town. To arrive from the north, you took the train south to Tres Piedras, hired a carriage, later a car, for a ride to the Rio Grande River. The length of the trip necessitated staying overnight at the Bridge Hotel, owned by Long John Dunn. The next day, for a fee, he brought you to Taos, everything timed perfectly to his advantage. He built the road, the bridge, and the inn, and there are remnants of the inn east of the bridge. His former house in Taos is now a bookstore, and there are a number of quality shops around the bookstore called the John Dunn Shops.
After church yesterday I stopped for brunch, eggs benedict, wonderful, at the renowned Doc Martin restaurant housed in what used to be the offices of Doctor Martin who came to the area in the early 1890's. He was the typical rural doctor, making chouse calls in a buggy, later a tin lizzie, accepting any kind of payment, chickens, potatoes, meat, whatever. Over time he and his wife bought several properties around a small plaza and these are now the lobby and patio of the hotel. After the doctor's death, the wife continued to buy and expand into what is now the Hotel Martin. It is well known for its celebrity clientele, but I didn't see any at the time I was there, too early probably. The place becomes quite lively at night with the Adobe Bar in the hotel, nightly entertainment, and the quality food. The ownership has changed many times but this bar and restaurant has really been the center of social activity in the town for many years. The people I saw in the restaurant yesterday could have been born there?
After church yesterday I stopped for brunch, eggs benedict, wonderful, at the renowned Doc Martin restaurant housed in what used to be the offices of Doctor Martin who came to the area in the early 1890's. He was the typical rural doctor, making chouse calls in a buggy, later a tin lizzie, accepting any kind of payment, chickens, potatoes, meat, whatever. Over time he and his wife bought several properties around a small plaza and these are now the lobby and patio of the hotel. After the doctor's death, the wife continued to buy and expand into what is now the Hotel Martin. It is well known for its celebrity clientele, but I didn't see any at the time I was there, too early probably. The place becomes quite lively at night with the Adobe Bar in the hotel, nightly entertainment, and the quality food. The ownership has changed many times but this bar and restaurant has really been the center of social activity in the town for many years. The people I saw in the restaurant yesterday could have been born there?
Sunday, November 6, 2011
Revisiting America
One day this past week, I was in Mariposa Boutique, not shopping, looking, and the owner, Katie Iko invited me to church. That's where I attended today, Taos Valley Baptist Church. Pastor Nick Shields delivered a great message from Revelation 3:14-22, concerning "luke-warm" Christians and churches. A very good crowd, lots of children and youth, off-the-wall music, but good, a full calender of activities, so friendly, and something I haven't seen before, a list of church member services. Everything from specially designed cards to plumbing and firewood.
The day I went to Arroyo Seco I also visited the Taos Pueblo. I'm sure most have read about or seen this unusual village. It's considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited community in the USA. The Native legends and detailed oral history trace their existence back to the beginning of the evolution of man and all of creation. The Native Language, Tiwa, is unwritten, unrecorded, and will remain so. The details of their traditional values are guarded as sacred and are not divulged. The past oppressions upon this culture has required them to keep the details unspoken.
The two main structures of the Pueblo, Hlaauma/North House, and Hlaukkwima/South House are believed to be well over a thousand years old. The buildings are made entirely of adobe and have to be plastered annually with adobe due to the exposure of the four seasons. The Pueblo maintains a restriction of NO ELECTRICITY, and NO RUNNING WATER within the sacred village. Some homes adopted the use of wood stoves for cooking but many still continue to cook right in the fireplace.
Conservation and preservation of the Sacred Village and the Blue Lake Wilderness Area are the primary concern of the Taos Pueblo. Their goal is to maintain the area of over 100,000 acres in it's most natural state-protecting trees, water, fish, wildlife, soils and land from damage. The Taos Wilderness Act provided the tribe with exclusive use of the area for traditional purposes and is closed to the geneeral public.
There is a fee to walk the grounds, as well as camera use, and guides are available as well.
Many of the houses are open and have jewelry, breads, and leather goods for sale. It sorta contradicts itself, but it is well worth the visit, and I will explain more in the book, plus pictures.
The day I went to Arroyo Seco I also visited the Taos Pueblo. I'm sure most have read about or seen this unusual village. It's considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited community in the USA. The Native legends and detailed oral history trace their existence back to the beginning of the evolution of man and all of creation. The Native Language, Tiwa, is unwritten, unrecorded, and will remain so. The details of their traditional values are guarded as sacred and are not divulged. The past oppressions upon this culture has required them to keep the details unspoken.
The two main structures of the Pueblo, Hlaauma/North House, and Hlaukkwima/South House are believed to be well over a thousand years old. The buildings are made entirely of adobe and have to be plastered annually with adobe due to the exposure of the four seasons. The Pueblo maintains a restriction of NO ELECTRICITY, and NO RUNNING WATER within the sacred village. Some homes adopted the use of wood stoves for cooking but many still continue to cook right in the fireplace.
Conservation and preservation of the Sacred Village and the Blue Lake Wilderness Area are the primary concern of the Taos Pueblo. Their goal is to maintain the area of over 100,000 acres in it's most natural state-protecting trees, water, fish, wildlife, soils and land from damage. The Taos Wilderness Act provided the tribe with exclusive use of the area for traditional purposes and is closed to the geneeral public.
There is a fee to walk the grounds, as well as camera use, and guides are available as well.
Many of the houses are open and have jewelry, breads, and leather goods for sale. It sorta contradicts itself, but it is well worth the visit, and I will explain more in the book, plus pictures.
Revisiting America
Thursday night when I attended the marionette show two ladies spoke to me, they were admiring the coat I had on, they asked if I was by myself, then they asked me to sit with them. Both are artists, Barbara Bartels and Margaret Baucom, so I found out where they were showing some of their work and visited the stores. Both very talented in my estimation, but entirely different techniques. I was only able to see one of Barbara's because the gallery was closed, but will be open later. But Margaret's paintings were in Arroyo Seco, a small town maybe five miles from Taos.
Arroyo Seco is described as a combination of historical adobes used for shops and enough other experiences to surprise anyone. I was warned to go very slow because the streets are very narrow and many pedestrians are roaming around.
Someone suggested taking your time because the store owners liked to visit with everyone. I found that to be true. Probably 20 shops in all but one of the favorites was The Taos Cow. I took a picture outside because one of the benches is painted like a cow, didn't go in, but found out later that this shop was voted one of the top ten ice cream shops in America by Bon Appetite Magazine. Comments were, "it's pricey but worth every penny". You'll never know if I revisit the town. They do serve breakfast and lunch, so maybe.
One block off main street is a rather plain, but beautiful church, cared for by Manuel a specially designated caretaker called a mayordomo, and this honor and privelege of caring for the church is handed down from generation to generation, Manuel's father and grandfather before him. I was unable to get in the church, but someone said there were priceless alter screen paintings inside.
Arroyo Seco is described as a combination of historical adobes used for shops and enough other experiences to surprise anyone. I was warned to go very slow because the streets are very narrow and many pedestrians are roaming around.
Someone suggested taking your time because the store owners liked to visit with everyone. I found that to be true. Probably 20 shops in all but one of the favorites was The Taos Cow. I took a picture outside because one of the benches is painted like a cow, didn't go in, but found out later that this shop was voted one of the top ten ice cream shops in America by Bon Appetite Magazine. Comments were, "it's pricey but worth every penny". You'll never know if I revisit the town. They do serve breakfast and lunch, so maybe.
One block off main street is a rather plain, but beautiful church, cared for by Manuel a specially designated caretaker called a mayordomo, and this honor and privelege of caring for the church is handed down from generation to generation, Manuel's father and grandfather before him. I was unable to get in the church, but someone said there were priceless alter screen paintings inside.
Revisiting America
The Taos Plaza, a plaza being the town center, in Spanish tradition, always housed the church and governmental offices, is over 200 years old.
My guidebook suggested you stand in the center of the Plaza and make a 360 degree scan of the important things in the area. The first being the statue
of Padre Antonio Jose Martinez whose influence as a legislator, leader, priest, and educator had an incredible impact on Taos and New Mexico.
The Hotel La Fonda stands on the site where many hotels have stood, but since 1937 has been the official name and place of one of The places to stay in Taos. Another story tells about this site being Long John Dunn's casino, later.
East, a US flag flies over the Plaza. During the Civil War, Kit Carson and some of his friends raised the Union flag to give the message of sympathy with the North, and they stood guard over this flag around the clock.
Taos has special government permission to fly this US flag 24 hours a day in honor of this event.
A Bronze Cross Memorial, to the east also, memorializes the many members of the New Mexican National guard who fought in the Phiippians, were captured by the Japanese, at least half died in the infamous Bataan Death March and in prison camps.
To the north you face what used to be the County Courthouse, but now the building houses shops. During the depression in the 1930's the WPA employed artists to paint murals in the building, this area now being blocked off from public view. Up exterior stairs in the back are paintings by the famed Mexican artist Diego Rivera, also kept from public view.
Facing north is a small gazebo used for concerts and other performances. Stairs going under the structure once housed part of the town jail.
The church Our Lady of Guadalupe, once part of the plaza, can be seen back of the gazebo and was first built in the early 1800's, replaced in 1911, burned and rebuilt in 1961, but definitely a small beautiful structure.
This plaza, as most centers of small towns, will continue to change, but the fact remains, the history is captured by the memorials and the fact that the area will always be known as The Plaza.
My guidebook suggested you stand in the center of the Plaza and make a 360 degree scan of the important things in the area. The first being the statue
of Padre Antonio Jose Martinez whose influence as a legislator, leader, priest, and educator had an incredible impact on Taos and New Mexico.
The Hotel La Fonda stands on the site where many hotels have stood, but since 1937 has been the official name and place of one of The places to stay in Taos. Another story tells about this site being Long John Dunn's casino, later.
East, a US flag flies over the Plaza. During the Civil War, Kit Carson and some of his friends raised the Union flag to give the message of sympathy with the North, and they stood guard over this flag around the clock.
Taos has special government permission to fly this US flag 24 hours a day in honor of this event.
A Bronze Cross Memorial, to the east also, memorializes the many members of the New Mexican National guard who fought in the Phiippians, were captured by the Japanese, at least half died in the infamous Bataan Death March and in prison camps.
To the north you face what used to be the County Courthouse, but now the building houses shops. During the depression in the 1930's the WPA employed artists to paint murals in the building, this area now being blocked off from public view. Up exterior stairs in the back are paintings by the famed Mexican artist Diego Rivera, also kept from public view.
Facing north is a small gazebo used for concerts and other performances. Stairs going under the structure once housed part of the town jail.
The church Our Lady of Guadalupe, once part of the plaza, can be seen back of the gazebo and was first built in the early 1800's, replaced in 1911, burned and rebuilt in 1961, but definitely a small beautiful structure.
This plaza, as most centers of small towns, will continue to change, but the fact remains, the history is captured by the memorials and the fact that the area will always be known as The Plaza.
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