Monday, November 7, 2011

Revisiting America

I'm sure most towns have interesting, unusual characters that have played a part in their history and one of these in Taos was Long John Dunn, an entrepreneur, who now has a bridge and area of town named for him. Getting to town in the early 20th century wasn't easy, only one road to get in and out of town. To arrive from the north, you took the train south to Tres Piedras, hired a carriage, later a car, for a ride to the Rio Grande River. The length of the trip necessitated staying overnight at the Bridge Hotel, owned by Long John Dunn. The next day, for a fee, he brought you to Taos, everything timed perfectly to his advantage. He built the road, the bridge, and the inn, and there are remnants of the inn east of the bridge. His former house in Taos is now a bookstore, and there are a number of quality shops around the bookstore called the John Dunn Shops.
After church yesterday I stopped for brunch, eggs benedict, wonderful, at the renowned Doc Martin restaurant housed in what used to be the offices of Doctor Martin who came to the area in the early 1890's. He was the typical rural doctor, making chouse calls in a buggy, later a tin lizzie, accepting any kind of payment, chickens, potatoes, meat, whatever. Over time he and his wife bought several properties around a small plaza and these are now the lobby and patio of the hotel. After the doctor's death, the wife continued to buy and expand into what is now the Hotel Martin. It is well known for its celebrity clientele, but I didn't see any at the time I was there, too early probably. The place becomes quite lively at night with the Adobe Bar in the hotel, nightly entertainment, and the quality food. The ownership has changed many times but this bar and restaurant has really been the center of social activity in the town for many years. The people I saw in the restaurant yesterday could have been born there?

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Revisiting America

One day this past week, I was in Mariposa Boutique, not shopping, looking, and the owner, Katie Iko invited me to church. That's where I attended today, Taos Valley Baptist Church. Pastor Nick Shields delivered a great message from Revelation 3:14-22, concerning "luke-warm" Christians and churches. A very good crowd, lots of children and youth, off-the-wall music, but good, a full calender of activities, so friendly, and something I haven't seen before, a list of church member services. Everything from specially designed cards to plumbing and firewood.
The day I went to Arroyo Seco I also visited the Taos Pueblo. I'm sure most have read about or seen this unusual village. It's considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited community in the USA. The Native legends and detailed oral history trace their existence back to the beginning of the evolution of man and all of creation. The Native Language, Tiwa, is unwritten, unrecorded, and will remain so. The details of their traditional values are guarded as sacred and are not divulged. The past oppressions upon this culture has required them to keep the details unspoken.
The two main structures of the Pueblo, Hlaauma/North House, and Hlaukkwima/South House are believed to be well over a thousand years old. The buildings are made entirely of adobe and have to be plastered annually with adobe due to the exposure of the four seasons. The Pueblo maintains a restriction of NO ELECTRICITY, and NO RUNNING WATER within the sacred village. Some homes adopted the use of wood stoves for cooking but many still continue to cook right in the fireplace.
Conservation and preservation of the Sacred Village and the Blue Lake Wilderness Area are the primary concern of the Taos Pueblo. Their goal is to maintain the area of over 100,000 acres in it's most natural state-protecting trees, water, fish, wildlife, soils and land from damage. The Taos Wilderness Act provided the tribe with exclusive use of the area for traditional purposes and is closed to the geneeral public.
There is a fee to walk the grounds, as well as camera use, and guides are available as well.
Many of the houses are open and have jewelry, breads, and leather goods for sale. It sorta contradicts itself, but it is well worth the visit, and I will explain more in the book, plus pictures.

Revisiting America

Thursday night when I attended the marionette show two ladies spoke to me, they were admiring the coat I had on, they asked if I was by myself, then they asked me to sit with them. Both are artists, Barbara Bartels and Margaret Baucom, so I found out where they were showing some of their work and visited the stores. Both very talented in my estimation, but entirely different techniques. I was only able to see one of Barbara's because the gallery was closed, but will be open later. But Margaret's paintings were in Arroyo Seco, a small town maybe five miles from Taos.
Arroyo Seco is described as a combination of historical adobes used for shops and enough other experiences to surprise anyone. I was warned to go very slow because the streets are very narrow and many pedestrians are roaming around.
Someone suggested taking your time because the store owners liked to visit with everyone. I found that to be true. Probably 20 shops in all but one of the favorites was The Taos Cow. I took a picture outside because one of the benches is painted like a cow, didn't go in, but found out later that this shop was voted one of the top ten ice cream shops in America by Bon Appetite Magazine. Comments were, "it's pricey but worth every penny". You'll never know if I revisit the town. They do serve breakfast and lunch, so maybe.
One block off main street is a rather plain, but beautiful church, cared for by Manuel a specially designated caretaker called a mayordomo, and this honor and privelege of caring for the church is handed down from generation to generation, Manuel's father and grandfather before him. I was unable to get in the church, but someone said there were priceless alter screen paintings inside.

Revisiting America

The Taos Plaza, a plaza being the town center, in Spanish tradition, always housed the church and governmental offices, is over 200 years old.
My guidebook suggested you stand in the center of the Plaza and make a 360 degree scan of the important things in the area. The first being the statue
of Padre Antonio Jose Martinez whose influence as a legislator, leader, priest, and educator had an incredible impact on Taos and New Mexico.
The Hotel La Fonda stands on the site where many hotels have stood, but since 1937 has been the official name and place of one of The places to stay in Taos. Another story tells about this site being Long John Dunn's casino, later.
East, a US flag flies over the Plaza. During the Civil War, Kit Carson and some of his friends raised the Union flag to give the message of sympathy with the North, and they stood guard over this flag around the clock.
Taos has special government permission to fly this US flag 24 hours a day in honor of this event.
A Bronze Cross Memorial, to the east also, memorializes the many members of the New Mexican National guard who fought in the Phiippians, were captured by the Japanese, at least half died in the infamous Bataan Death March and in prison camps.
To the north you face what used to be the County Courthouse, but now the building houses shops. During the depression in the 1930's the WPA employed artists to paint murals in the building, this area now being blocked off from public view. Up exterior stairs in the back are paintings by the famed Mexican artist Diego Rivera, also kept from public view.
Facing north is a small gazebo used for concerts and other performances. Stairs going under the structure once housed part of the town jail.
The church Our Lady of Guadalupe, once part of the plaza, can be seen back of the gazebo and was first built in the early 1800's, replaced in 1911, burned and rebuilt in 1961, but definitely a small beautiful structure.
This plaza, as most centers of small towns, will continue to change, but the fact remains, the history is captured by the memorials and the fact that the area will always be known as The Plaza.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Revisiting America

Thursday night I attended a most amazing performance, "The Cashore Marionettes" at the Taos Community Auditorium, a part of the park complex.
A marionette is a puppet controlled from above by strings. The word "marionette is derived from "Mary" and originated in Europe in the Middle Ages when nativity plays were performed using the stringed puppets. However, marionettes themselves are much older and no specific date can be given. In the U.S. puppet shows are often considered to be exclusively for children but throughout the rest of the world, puppet and marionette plays are classicly adult entertainment.
Joseph Cashore created his first marionette from clothespins, wood string and a tin can. His goal, after making that first puppet, was to create the illusion and sensation that the puppet was alive. He soon realized that in order to have the fluid motion he sought in his puppets, he would have to create his own control designs. He spent the next nineteen years, while pursuing a career in oil painting, experimenting with the construction of the marionettes and divising totally new control mechanisms.
Cashore resides in Colmar, PA, graduated from the Uni.of Notre Dame with a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree and has been making marionettes for more than 30 years. He is an accomplished artist as well as puppeteer, and his talent in sculpture and portraiture is evident in his marionettes. The marionettes, their clothing, all the props, the vingettes, the selection of the classical pieces he uses as background, all create a magic controlled by the subtle movements of Cashore's hands. A bucking horse, wrinkly elephant, young rock star, and old woman are some of the few characters Cashore has brought to life. In spite of his own shyness, Cashore has finally become comfortable with the attention he receives. But he says the audience isn't looking at him, but at the creations that come to life under his hands, to play a guitar, place flowers on a grave, rock a child to sleep, pick up certain objects and place them.
I wish I could have counted the number of strings on some of the characters, there must have been at least fifteen or twenty on some that did very intricate things.
Cashore hgas been awarded the highest honor a North American puppeteer can receive, the Citation of Excellence from the United States branch of Union Internationale de la Marionnette. Its citations are "awarded to shows that touch their audiences deeply; that totally engage, enchant, and enthrall. I was totally engaged, enchanted and enthralled.

Revisiting America

On my way to the park I pass the Fechin House which was opened as a museum in 1981, although it wasn't open at all when Fletcher and I visited Taos at another time.
Nicolai Fechin is considered one of the greatest portrait artists of our time. He earned a scholarship to the Kazan Art School, graduated from there, received another scholarship to the Imperial Art Academy of St. Petersburg, and later taught for ten years at the Kazan school having been appointed State Teacher of Painting. The Kazan Art School's Director suggested his daughter to help Fechin translate his correspondence, which became monumental after he began showing in exhibitions in Munich, The Carnegie Institute in Pittsburg, the Brooklyn Museum, and the Chicago Art Institute. Having won many awards his work attracted buyers from many nations. Fechin later married the Director's daughter and they had a daughter.
An invitation, to come to America, interrupted by World War I, delayed his emigration and establishment of a stable career. Portrait commissions, important exhibitions, and teaching supported the family while living in New York and Pittsburg, but the climate was ill-suited to his delicate health. Accepting an invitation to visit Taos, in 1926, the land and people reminded Fechin of his Russian home, so he moved here in 1927. After a divorce in 1933, he and his daughter moved to the area of Los Angeles, California, where he taught, painted and exhibited for the remainder of his life.
The house contains many influences, Russian, Spanish, and Pueblo. Fechin's training included a thorough study of architecture and theater design. Buying seven acres of land including a small studio, outbuilding and two-story house, he used local laborers to renovate the studio and rebuild the house increasing its size by three times. Being a tireless
worker he painted all day long when the light was right, and then worked on the house.
Fechin's extraordinary use of wood showed the influence of his years in the forested land of Kazan, and his many carvings reflect his love of wood. The metal work, (light fixtures, door hardware, etc:) was designed by Fechin and forged by a local blacksmith. He never used power tools, but used an adze, textured the wood, then hand carved it with an amazing array if designs. You can tell I was impressed with the home, as well as the black and white drawings and portraits on display.
There is a WALMART in town.

Revisiting America

My casita, I should ask someone, but I think it means, "little house", is so charming, nice-sized living room, big fully-equipped kitchen, with eating area, big bedroom, bath, and utility with washer, dryer, plenty of storage space, and a little covered front porch. There are 8 units in the complex, all separate houses with different configurations, stucco finish, walled in with "coyote" fencing and adobe pillars at the entrance and exit. One block off main street, but you hear no traffic because of the many trees and fencing, so, "New Mexicoish, I know that isn't a word, but that's how I want to describe it. I walk two blocks down main street to the Kit Carson (remember him, I'll go into more detail about him later)Memorial Park. There is a walking trail, benches to sit, tennis and badminton courts, ball fields and bleechers, an amphitheater, restrooms, beautiful landscaping and trees, even in this winter weather, and at the back of the park, a small cemetary, the burial place of notables such as Kit Carson, etc:.
The first morning I walked, Wednesday, I got back to the house and was locked out, the screen door having locked on its own. My landlady, Lovey, so kind and nice, assured me it had happened before. An hour later I was inside thawing out, having wished for my tool kit, locked in the car, and Lovey having to go to another apartment to get her tools. Neither of our tool kits were necessary, we finally tore the screen and used a table knife to lift the latch. I leave home now with every key I own, but the screen door has no key, so.

Revisiting America

My accomodations on this ferry were a little larger, the room having two sets of bunk-beds rather than one, giving me more floor space, and the bathroom was a little nicer. The dining was cafeteria-style, good food, as many as five entrees for the night meal, cafeteria open 24 hours. I'm sure most of the ferries are about the same, this one only a little smaller and older than the trip to Ketchikan.
Met some interesting ladies touring with an Elder Hostel group, having been to Ketchikan for tours and study. All on board were invited to watch 2 movies concerning their study. A nice way to travel-people your own age, inexpensive, many, many areas of study, everything planned and coordinated for you. Something to look in to.
There are three crossings where you are in unprotected waters, and I had begun to dread the Port Charlotte one, which usually lasts two hours, but this time I considered it rather rough, and it lasted three hours, but one of the workers, when I asked, said it was an "average" crossing.
Anyway, we were on time getting to Bellingham Friday morning, around 8:15.
I was so glad to get on the road again, and I was non-stop when I drove off the ferry.
The scenery, having changed drastically in the month I was in Ketchikan, was so beautiful, most of the trees having turned every shade of yellow and gold, and stacked up against the mountains. I couldn't take pictures and drive, so I chose to make time. Spent the first night in Baker City, Oregon(the scenery gorgeous through the state), drove on to Provo, Utah (the scenery so different with the bare hills and mountains) the second night, and having called Mack and Marie Jones, spent Sunday night with them in Pagosa Springs, Colorado. I've always considered true friendship the kind that regardless of the years of abscence between visits, you pick up right where you left off. It was a great visit, and they are such welcoming and attentive hosts.
Only about 140 miles from Pagosa Springs to Taos, so I was checking in my Casita in Taos by 1:00 p.m., just so thankful for a safe journey.

Revisiting America

There are two things I intend to accomplish today, catch up on my blogging, and watch Alabama beat LSU.
There are several things scheduled in town that I wanted to attend, a fundraiser for the Charter School featuring soup and pottery. Local potters, with the students participating in the glazing, make the bowls, and the soup and bread is provided by local restaurants. Plus, original music by Charter School students.
And, there is an opening reception and trunk showing for November's artist Faith Welsh, who will be demonstrating knitting and crocheting techniques of her hand-knit wearable art peices featured at the Museum Store at the Harwood Museum of art. Not that I knit or crochet, but it would be an interesting event.
My reluctance in not going out is the fact that it has been snowing steadily for the last several hours, everything, including my car, covered in snow. A beautiful sight, but I'm not too sure that I want to venture out in it.
I do need to "back-up" and get me to Taos, which was a wonderful trip in itself.
I woke up to rain, on the 26th, and wondered about getting my car packed, but it did slack enough for that, and I was able to get some thank-you's to certain people, eat lunch again at The Point with Nicole, tell Dave Rubin good-bye again, and get in the line for the ferry by 2:00 p.m.
Should be no hurry, because once you're on you're not going anywhere. But as I said before, I certainly didn't want to miss it.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Revisiting America

This will be my last posting from Ketchikan, a quickie, and I'll go into more detail later, you've heard that before?
Last Sunday I attended First Baptist Church again. Had intended to go to the Catholic church, but didn't realize the Mass started at 9:30, even though I was up, just not ready. Baptist church met a lady who grew up in Mobile, here because her husband is in the Coast Guard. So nice, and we knew about the same places and a few people.
Sunday afternoon Nicole and I attended a rehearsal of the production, "Anything Goes", since I wouldnt be here for the actual performance. Very talentedmix of people, some teen-agers, young couples, middle-aged, and a delightful 80 year old,former mayor of Ketchikan and the Bourough and a mainstay of the theater and performing arts here. He was singing and dancing as ably as everyone else. All areas of the arts is really promoted here.
Then we went to The Narrows restaurant for a bowl of clam chowder, and sampled appetizers. Many of the restaurants are participating in something like a "Bobby Flay Throwdown" and they were trying out different sauces, cooking techniques, etc: on the foods they were given, and we got to give our opinion on the results. Lot of fun, eventhough we were inn the Bar on a Sunday night (the restaurant area was closed).
Met a friend of Nicole's, a professional diver, native of Ketchikan, and in the conversation he asked if I had ridden in a float plane, my answer being "no", he said he would make arrangements for me to do that on Monday.
So, Monday at 1:30 p.m., I was at Pacific Air and was the "ride-along" for the trip to deliver people and cargo to four different places on Prince of Wales Island. How exciting, and I'll never be able to adequately describe the scenery. So fun, and such nice people.
And yesterday I was interviewed by the local daily newspaper, "The Daily News", pictures and all. She really didn't have to ask me questions because I have so much to say about the trip. Anyway, they'll send me copies whenever they run the story.
This ends another great month. Leave on the ferry at 3:00 p.m. this afternoon, arrive back in Bellingham, Washington, Friday morning, and then to Taos, New Mexico.
I'm packed, but the car isn't yet, such heavy rain, but I will not miss the ferry, the next one in another week. More news later.

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Revisiting America

Thursday night Nicole and I visited the Pioneer Home for the Thursday night Family and Friends dinner. It was an opportunity for me to meet James' mother, Nicole's mother-in-law, Jane Church, a resident there for the last year and a half. She's a beautiful lady, in her early nineties, and very aware and able to talk about everything.
The home was beautifully decorated with Halloween things, if you can say Halloween stuff is beautiful, and the five-course meal was great, thanks to the new food director, a nice lady from Georgia, we sounded the same. An appetizer, soup, salad, entree, and dessert, and all tables were waited on, your water glass never got below half-full, by Boy Scouts from one of the local troops. They were so young, efficient, handsome in their uniforms, polite and I'm sure participating to help earn one of their badges. Regardless, they did a great job, probably something most of them had never done before.
The entertainment was by Dave Rubin and band, and I'm beginning to see that they are such an important part of the community because they play at so many events. (I did go by The Point yesterday while they were there playing and Dave and I swapped tapes, his mostly featuring him and some of his songs and mine, the one that Regina and I had done at the concert.) So, I will leave a little bit of me in Ketchikan).
The Pioneer Homes are like our Nursing Homes, this one right on the main street making it so convenient for family and friends to visit. The average age for the residents is "86 years young", Jane being is her early nineties.
Another feature of this home is they are registered as an Eden home which has the philosophy that family, friends, pets, and plants all contribute to creating a "human habitat" by revitalizing relationships and encouraging residents to be involved with activities that help alleviate loneliness, helplessness and boredom.
Also, the Home provides a respite care program which provides 24-hour care for up to two weeks for individuals in the community who need short-term assistance for a scheduled period of time.
Another focus is the enlistment of volunteers and there were many there that night.
It was a very enjoyable evening, and just another part of life in Ketchikan.

Revisiting America

Out of the 26 days I've been in Ketchikan, it has rained 23 days, most of those days, all day, sometimes taking a lunch break, but most days non-stop. Usually a soft, slow rain which can be taken care of with a rain-type windbreaker. I'm still amazed that it is not very cold, but of course being on the water, etc" all that makes the difference. I knew it would be that way so it hasn't stopped my getting out and doing things. Now today, 8:00a.m., and there's a mimi-storm raging, wind blowing, raining very hard, still quite dark. This will probably be a day I won't venture out, it's Saturday, nothing really happening, good day to finish my book and plan the things I have left to do here.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Revisiting America

My blog is supposed to be about me and my travels, but what could be more important and exciting than telling about a new great-grandson, born several hours ago, to Lauren and Elliot Brown, 7lbs. some ounces, I didn't listen to that part well enough, 21 inches long, and named Mason Reed Brown. Baby and both parents doing well, and having already seen pictures, Mason is a beautiful, healthy, baby boy. How exciting and wonderful that all is okay!
It started raining Sunday morning and has just now stopped, not quite full daylight yet, and the wind isn't blowing. But that didn't keep a friend, Agnes Moran from picking me up yesterday for a ride up in the mountains, following some roads that she hikes on everyday. I went to the end of the road again, but this time all that was left was the hike, straight up, the mountain, Brown Mountain. The scenery couldn't have been more beautiful, sun shining or what. You could almost see the top of the mountain through the mist, but you could see the waterfalls. There was no start or finish, just the waterfall. Hope my pictures turn out. Made several stops to be able to view the Harriett Hunt Lake, Knudson Cove, and made a rest stop at Agnes's home, beautiful, right on the water, big picture windows in the living and dining areas. Why would you ever want to leave home?
But Agnes does, being a very active, wife, mother, Bourough Council member,on many other boards and committees, and being a Ketchikan native, so in tune to the needs and wants of the community. It was such a pleasure to spend time with her, and how would I ever have seen that part of Ketchikan without her taking the time. I loved it and hope I was able to convey to her how much I appreciated and enjoyed the tour and spending the time with her.

Revisiting America

Saturday night, the 15th, Nicole and I attended the 16th Annual Alaska Day Auction, benefitting the Holy Name Catholic School. Wow, was it an affair. Probably close to 300 people there including those behind the scene workers, kitchen help, auctioneers,(2), five emcees, those selling tickets for the different raffles and door prizes, the bookkeepers, the teachers connected with the school. A crowd, but a fun time. Nicole said any given year they would clear between $75,OO0 to $80,000 dollars. There were wonderful things for the live auction and many tables of things for the silent auction. And did I mention the wonderful buffet cooked and served by parents of children of the school. You can imagine the food it took to serve that many people, and it was all quite good. The evening was so well organized, but with 81 items, plus some add-ons, we only stayed through item number 61, after 9:00 p.m., so never heard when it finally did end, nor have I heard the amount raised, it will be interesting to find out. Just another wonderful example of community supporting community.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Revisiting America

Ketchikan was cited a few years ago as one of America's Top 100 Small Arts Communities. 2011 was designated as the Year of the Artist, this bringing to the community focus a wide range of events, highlighted by carvings to video, bluegrass to weaving, culinary art to watercolor. Native artists, some internationally known, work in traditional forms from carving to weaving, and most local galleries are owned and operated by resident artists. Maybe it's good that some are closed for the season because you would never be able to visit all of them. I've already mentioned some that were recommended, but not by any means a good represenative list of all that is here to see.
I met Dave Rubin at The Point last Friday, after lunch and his music session, and we visited "The Rock", a staturary monument featuring representations of Ketchikan's pioneers. I had mentioned this monument before but he told me all about his idea for the monument, how it all came about as far as city approval, financing, location, etc:. It is a most detailed staturary, 7 figures representative of the many diverse occupations of the settlers.
I am so impressed with this person, Dave, who arrived in Ketchikan in 1983, at the urging of a friend, part of a folk-rock band, "Tattoo". Dave is a New York City-bred painter, songwriter, singer, guitarist, saxophonist, and has been described as being able to turn up anywhere with a brush, or a horn, or a six-string. He started painting as a child, attended several New York schools of art, and is still painting landscapes, portraits, and of course, is well known because of "The Rock". After pictures on the dock with the monument we went to The Southeast Alaska Discovery Center, which was closed, but Dave knew the director and we were able to go in and see a series of portraits of Native elders and young leaders, so beautiful I might add. While there we did tour the Center, with Dave's explanations, and I didn't have to read every plaque. He also has an exhibit representative of his work hanging in the Center. It's amazing the doors that have been opened for me because they have a key, or someone knows someone. I'm so fortunate.
Church yesterday at First Baptist Church of Ketchikan was great. A real Southern Baptist, active, mission-minded, prayer-led church. Their purpose, "To lead people to God through a faith relationship with Jesus Christ and to equip the whole church to become Great Commission Christians." His message did focus on equipping and preparing ourselves, as well as the church, for service.
Raining, which is quite incidential now, so rather than come home and wonder what to eat, went to "Annabelle's" for their wonderful clam chowder and crab cakes, plus a salad, no dessert this time. Then came home to an evening of reading and dozing, and sorta looking at the things I need to do in the 10 days I have left here. It's exactly what the saying means, Time Flies".

Saturday, October 15, 2011

Revisiting America

One more totem sight to mention. The Saxman Native Village Totem Pole Park is located 2 1/2 miles south of Ketchican, has similar artifacts as those at the other locations, but during the tourist season you can see carvers at work. Nathan Jackson is considered the foremost Tlinglit artist, in wood carving and jewelry making, and I understand works mostly by commission.
We met Woody Anderson walking around the park and he graciously consented to talk to us about Saxman and the area in general. He does some carving and it's displayed at "Crazy Wolf Studio". I did visit this studio and met the owner-artist, Ken Decker, a native of Ketchikan, wife-owner, Monica. Ken paints, makes drums, teaches art at one of the local schools, and was so easy to talk to and question about the area and his work.
Marge, Shirley, nor I opted to take the tram, 130 feet up the hill, to the Cape Fox Lodge, situated above downtown Ketchikan. One feature of the Lodge is a collection of Native art unlike any other found in the world, very interesting and displayed so beautifully. The Heen Kahidi Restaurant was waiting for us for lunch and Shirley finally ordered King Crab (such a helping, well over a pound of meat, that I got to bring it home and finish later). The food was good, but the setting was spectacular, we did linger a long time after lunch. Such a beautiful building, built in the trees, looking down on Ketchikan, Creek street, and you're even able to see the main street. A good view too of so many of the houses that have only steps leading to them, not streets. That is one of the most unique things about this place.
I definitely need to visit an "Overeating Anomyous Meeting" and I think Shirley and Marge would agree, because after our meal at Cape Fox Lodge we all were miserable. So, stayed in for Shirley and Marge to pack, play a few more cards, get up early Tuesday morning and I did take them to the airport, via the ferry, it was raining(so what), and this would make it easier for them, besides I hated to see them go and wanted to visit as much as possible. (long, run-on sentence, okay?) Nice airport, very accomodating and easy to get around in. Marge, needing a wheelchair, said everyone the entire trip had been so helpful and accomodating, which is great. Once past check-in I couldn't talk to them anymore so came on home , really to do nothing for a while.
Nicole and I met for lunch on Wednesday, at The Point again, especially to go with Dave Rubin to see the monument in town that commemorates the settlers of the town. After that we visited The New York Hotel (1924), still in business, up-dated rooms, somewhat, beautiful woodwork, The Scanlon Art Gallery, very up-scale, and in business since 1972,considered Alaska's Major Art Center, the owner a friend of Nicole, I've already mentioned Crazy Wolf Studios, Parnassus Book Store, in the process of moving to a new location, but able to see the wonderful collection of books, art, gifts, etc:, then strolled some on Creek Street, wooden streets with the rushing Creek below. I do hope some of my pictures in the book will help you get a feel of the uniqueness and quaintness of this place, along with the business of this place. It's like it never really stops.
Out my windows you see planes, helicopters, boats of every description, and we're right on the main street, so cars, motorcycles, constantly. But, then you realize there is "one main street" and one Narrows Inlet for everything that moves.

Revisiting America

There are hundreds of retail shops, art galleries, restaurants, different types of lodgings, transportation services, buses, ferries, rental cars, water taxis, float planes, charter fishing, guided tours, museums, public restrooms, phones, cash machines, all geared to the huge influx of tourists arriving from May to September. Since I'm here in the off-season, many things are closed, but there is enough to become acquainted with Ketchikan, and it's great without the crowds.
Tongass Trading Center offered every kind of wear for this weather, every brand, every price range, and hundreds of every item, it seemed.
Friday for lunch, we met Nicole at The Point, a trendy cafe, on the waterfront, a combo playing during the noon hour (wonderful, happy group playing and singing my kind of music), wonderful soups, salads, and sandwiches, and a special, home-baked cookie, your dessert, with each order.
Another reason for going there was to meet with Dave Rubin, wonderful artist-sculptor, musician, that I'll tell you about later. The Point is also a one-stop shopping area for all kinds of yarn, beading, (classes are offered in knitting, beading, etc:)as well as a great display of local artists works.
From what we are seeing, there are many, many talented, gifted, people in this town.
After lunch we rode to the north end of the island, not quite as picturesque as the south end, but nevertheless beautiful, along the water, very dense woods, and again, took a picture of the, "END".
Visited The Totem Bight State Park to see another selection of totems and a clan house carved beginning in 1938 by Natives working with traditional tools to copy fragments of historic poles that had mostly rotted away. Who remembers the CCC, the New Deal's Civilian Conservation Corps? This project helped save a Tlingit and Haida culture that had been essentialy outlawed until that time. There must have been 20 poles, some 60 feet tall, most very intricately carved, and in a perfect spot. The clan house was quite large and would house as many as three families. The setting, at the site of an old fishing camp, beautiful cove on the edge of Tongass Narrows.
Friday night took us to The Narrows for supper. Again, on the waterfront, good food, owner who came to our table and talked about Ketchikan. Of course, we all want seafood, but haven't tried King Crab yet.
Denise and Nancy did some shopping Saturday a.m. while we stayed home and geared up for the Alabama game and I cooked a tail-gate meal, barbecue ribs, potato salad, baked beans, coleslaw, even a dessert.
Sunday, early a.m., took Nancy and Denise to the ferry(they would not let us take them across to the airport), bid them good-bye, and came home to get ready to visit the Lutheran Church at 11:00.
It's like every Sunday, whatever church I'm attending, knows the message I need to hear and prepares it just for me. That was the case again this time. Wonderful message, friendly people, beautiful, old building, good crowd, and I'm happy to say, some children there, very out-going, up-beat pastor, communion, coffee hour after church, and a credo worth mentioning, "Called by Christ, to Invite, Equip and Send".
The Landing Restaurant at the Best Western Hotel called us to lunch where, again we had clam chowder, salmon steaks(which were very good, I had been kinda dreading ordering it because I had eaten some before that was "tasteless", but this was an exception), and by this time, my refrigerator is almost full having taken "doggy-bags" home with us, with no dog at home, and most of the left-overs never eaten.
The "Tongass Trading Triangle" had every kind of souvenier imaginable, clothing, jackets, raingear(every store has this), a nice rather inexpensive shop.
I haven't mentioned cards at all because I'vve had no one to play with since Janie(by the way, she is better, responding to medication, therapy, and all else that goes along with it)went home, so it was nice to play again, but not to lose as badly as I did.

Revisiting America

TOTEM POLES
This is the first thing we all wanted to see.
Thw Totem Heritage Center houses a priceless collection of 19th century totem poles and other carvings, retrieved from the Tlingit (the "T" is pronounced like a "k")Indian villages at Tongass Island and Village Island, and from Haida village of Old Kasan, on Prince of Wales Island. In order to be near schools, churches, and the canneries, mines and sawmills that offered employment, these villagers moved to Ketchikan and other towns at the beginning of the 20th century.
With the permission of Native elders, The Alaska State Museum and the Alaska Native Brotherhood, carried out the retrieval of the totem poles, with the elders providing valuable cultural and historical information about the poles. The Smithsonian Institution and the U.S. Forest Service provided technical assistance.
Poles in the Heritage Center were carved by Native artists during the heyday of totem pole carving on the Northwest Coast between the middle and end of the 19th century. They are preserved as they were found, all severely weathered, many with the original paint, but much of the original detail intact showing the skill and sophistication of their carvers.
Traditionally, totem poles were carved to honor important individuals, commemorate significant events, and to proclaim the lineage and social standing of their owners. They have great cultural importance because of their tangible references to the people, events, stories, and legends that figure in the oral histories of these Northwest Coast Native peoples. They are not religious objects and have never been worshipped. While the figures on a totem pole might be readily recognizable, the pole's significance or "meaning" can only be known if one knows the purpose and occasion for which it was created, as well as the individuals, groups, or stories associated with it. This information was traditionally introduced when the pole was raised, and then passed down orally from one generation to another,much of the information lost with the passing of time.
The totem poles preserved in the Totem Heritage Center were all carved from the wood of the Western red cedar which dominated the coastal forests from Washington to Southeast Alaska. The red cedar has been the "tree of life" for the Native peoples of the region for thousands of years, using all of the tree for different purposes. The inner bark provided fiber for baskets, mats, rope, and clothing. Dugout canoes up to sixty feet long were fashioned from the trunks, and large communal houses were built with massive cedar posts, beams, and planks. The red cedar was the ideal material for the totem poles because of the straight grain of the wood, it was easily carved, and highly resistant to rot.
The Heritage Center is dedicated to the preservation of the cultural traditions that gave rise to the magnificent totem poles on display, as well as offering classes and workshops about these groups of people in order to strengthen and perpetuate these traditions for future generations. Tours are provided, rotating exhibits and a wonderful collection of baskets, regalia, carvings, and photographs, an extensive library of books, magazines, slides and videos, can be accessed-all of this is available in addition to the totem poles. Needless to say, we spent quite a bit of time in the Center, but we're not through with totem poles.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Revisiting America

One of the first things we all wanted to do was ride to the "End" of the island. We went south out of town and loved the secnic ride, lush forests, speectacular views of the coastline surrounded by mountains, several beautiful waterfalls, bald eagles sitting on logs in a cove, even a water otter, of course it was in the water but called that because of the cove it was in, many old ram-shackled buildings which added to the quaintness of the area, but finally reaching the sign that said, "END". The last few miles were on gravel road, so we were determined to reach the end. Of course, all of this is documented with pictures
which yhou'll never see because of my inadequate use of the computer.
We do tend to time our sightseeing by our mealtime, so we were back in town in time for lunch at "Annabelle's, a famous keg and chowder house according to the menu which was printed like a newspaper and dating back to March 1927. The restaurant was housed in the Gilmore Building, a hotel, but was closed for rennovations but the restaurant decor and furnishings were of the period, so beautifully done. White tablecloths, silver, china, beautiful high-back chairs around the tables, fabric seats for the booths-very elegant, and great service.
The food was excellent. We all started with clam chowder and later claimed that to be the best of all the many places we ate. We ate a variety of things ,with the crab cakes getting rave reviews. My wonderful carrot cake dessert was the biggest of all so half of it came home with me. We would all like to eat there again.

Revisiting America

The longer I wait the harder it is to blog and I did say I would wait until after Shirley visited to tell you about so many of the attractions here.
I was so excited to see Shirley, Marge, Nancy and Denise walk up the ramp from the ferry and finally be in Ketchikan, Alaska after having left Birmingham around 4:00 a.m., with stops in Atlanta (naturally), Seattle, and then the ferry ride from Gravina Island, only three minutes, but the only way to get here. Do you remember the congressional scandal, "The Bridge to Nowhere"? That would have been the bridge connecting Gravina Island to Ketchikan, but it never happened, so the ferry ride.
I hadn't given much thought to five of us riding in my vehicle, but the back seats were removed to give me more storage room, so Shirley was the one who sat on a little box, with a cushion on top, between the two middle seats. She didn't seem to mind, said it was quite comfortable, until I braked quickly and it sent her plunging toward the front. It didn't happen too many times to which Shirley said, "thank goodness". Needless to say, they were all quite weary so we all retired early after a light supper of soup, salad, and sandwiches.

Monday, October 3, 2011

Revisiting America

It's raining, but a beautiful day today, probably 45 degrees, cloudy. I would say, typical.
I attended Gateway Baptist Church yesterday, Pastor John W. Judson, an attendee of Bob Jones University in Greenville, South Carolina, in the area with wife and children for about 15 years. Small attendance, showing 50 as the highest number attending during the month of September, but again, as most churches I've attended, many opportunities for service and involvement.
Good message, good music, and very friendly people. Their statement says, "the friendly church that is standing by the gate and pointing the way to Jesus Christ". His message certainly did that.
All roads lead to Walmart. I found one, not a Super store, but very nice. And there is a Mall, with a MacDonald's, which I'm sure draws a lot of people.
Not a big variety of stores in the Mall, but there are hundreds of other shops to browse in around town. Nicole is going to help me sort out those that shouldn't be missed, as well as other attractions. And we must have a list of the best seafood restaurants, especially those that feature the best salmon in Alaska.
I've found a walking "trail" partly on the main highway, but mostly by the water, through a neighborhood, with barking dogs, every kind of boat imagineable on the water, docked float planes, every-size, shape, and kind of house, but a "doable" walk, probably close to 3 miles. Will time it the next time I walk to be sure I'm doing enough. And i haven't gotten up the nerve to walk in the rain yet, so that could be limiting. We'll see.
I must say I appreciate my readers, but as I come to an end of my adventure, please comment on what you want to know. It is becoming "same-o, same-o to me and I'm afraid you'll lose interest. Especially since I've been in Alaska, I'm lagging. I will try to "rev-it-up" a bit in the next few weeks because I've not really said much, okay?

Revisiting America

I'm afraid my venturesome spirit has become one of "I'll just wait, or I don't want to get out in the rain, or I'm not sure what to do first, or I'll just wait until Shirley gets here then I won't have to do it over again." I've chosen the latter apparently because I've done very little this week.
True to its billing, it has rained just about every day. Never a steady downpour, but a twenty minute rain, the sun come out, another rain, the sun, all day long. It doewn't matter, I'm in Ketchican, Alaska.
My landlady, Nicole, got us tickets to one of the very special events of the year here, the "Women of Distinction Annual Awards Dinner and Silent Auction". I knew that would be a way to meet a lot of people and learn about the WISH organization. WISH is a non-profit organization established in 1977 in Ketchican to provide advocacy for adult and child victims of domestic violence and sexual assult. The WISH organization sponsors the Women of Distinction celebration which affirms the extraordinary effort and commitment women have shown for community. This year celebrated the efforts of 5 women.
Women In Safe Homes (WISH)is a shelter, open 365 days a year, serving Ketchican, Saxman, Prince of Wales Island, Metlakatla, Wrangell, Petersburg, and Hyder. Victims needing shelter are transported to Ketchican from these outlying areas as well as support being given to assist volunteers in these communities. Last year 5,830 shelter nights and personal services for women, men and children were provided for those residing in southern southeast Alaska.
Pre-program music was provided by "Tears of Fancy" I would say music with a Celtic origin, with fiddle, guitar, lute, very nice and a sound not often heard. Then, during the program as each honoree was introduced a special music presentation was given, one of these the Ketchican Inter-tribal Drummers, native dress and dances. My first time to see something like this.
The Ted Ferry Civic Center was beautifully decorated, auction items were displayed around the room and the meal was prepared and served by members of the High School Soccer team and their parents. You could tell this wasn't their first year (it was the 4th)because everything ran smoothly. This was so much like our Library Auction at home, growing every year in attendance, more money raised each year, and a wonderful core of volunteers that can "get the job done".
Our table of eight was Nicole and myself, Choc Schafer, Agnes Moran (running for City Council woman), Lois and Lloyd Gossman, Ellen Bishop, and Anne Lucas, one of the founders of the program. All such nice people and supporters of community endeavors. I understand I'm to attend another event like this in several weeks, is that right, Nicole? Great!

Friday, September 30, 2011

Revisiting America

Ketchican's weather is mild by Alaskan standards. An average temperature is 45 degrees with little snow. The average rainfall per year is a total of 160 inches, raining 224 days to reach this total. People say that if you can't see the top of Deer Mountain it's raining, and if you can see the top it's about to rain. This doesn't dampen the spirits of the residents or visitors here because Ketchican is an ideal city to wander about. Strolling along the waterfront there are quaint buildings, totem poles even in front of Victorian homes, Ketchican Creek running through the town, summer and spring watching the salmon run, shops with native crafts, jewelry, basketry.
On summer days cruise ships will unload as many as 10,000 tourists, transforming the town into a thriving business venture, then evening comes, the streets empty, and the ships move on to the next port.

Revisiting America

Ketchican lies in what has got to be the world's least likely spots for a city.
A first impression might be that the city is built on stilts, half over the water and half on the steep mountainside. Located on an island, its buildings are jammed against a mountain,thick with trees, and strung along the water front.
There are twenty miles of roads, not counting city streets.
Ketchican has been given many nicknames, "first city of Alaska," "Salmon Capitol of the World,""Birthplace of Alaskan Pulp Industry," and "Totemland."
Nearly all of Southeast Alaska, stretching 500 miles from Ketchican to Yakutat, is in the Tongass National forest. The towns sit in small pockets of private land surrounded by 17 million acres of land controlled by the U.S. Forest Service-an area nearly as large as the state of Maine, and considerably larger than any other national forest or national park in the United States. The vast majority of the land has never been logged and with the decline of the logging industry preserves one of the world's great temperate rainforests in its virgin state. A treasure to be enjoyed by all.

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Revisiting America

One of the really fun parts of the trip is meeting my new landlords at each new place.  Nicole and James Church are from California and own an orchard.  That's all I know at this point but you'll know more about them in time.  I do know they are very keen about their accomodations being acceptable to their renters.  Haven't found anything lacking so far, except maybe a rolling pin and I may not have discovered it yet. 
The apartment is upstairs which gives me a good view of the water and I can clearly see float planes landing and taking off, as well as other ships in the channel.  Their property is very wooded, but with several covered seating areas as well as cooking facilities outside.  I have a large bedroom, two queen beds, several chests of drawers, big closet, foyer with a closet with washer-dryer and other cleaning necessities, large bath with shower, big kitchen, fully equipped, big table in the eating area and aquite adequate living area.  TV in living and bedroom areas, clocks everywhere, night lights, wonderful other lightning, sometimes lacking in lots of places.  You get the idea, what more could I need.  Oh, and a corner, gas, fireplace, which makes for cozy.

Revisiting America

In fact, there is no way you can get to Ketchican except by water.  You can fly in to Gravina Island, but you still have to take a ferry across the sound to get to town.
Hence, the ferry ride, which was quite nice actually. 
The wait to board the ferry was the hardest part eventhough I didn't have to check out of my motet until noon, but I'm finding out, no one seems to be in a hurry.  Finally boarded the ferry around 4:30 after walking around the Fairhaven area, full of shops and restaurants, and considered to be "Bellingham" by some. 
The MVColumbia was a nice, big, cruise ship, with my car on board. 
The Alaska Marine Highway System, with an eleven-ship-fleet, serves a 3500- mile route and 33 ports, with an estimated 320,000 passengers and 97,000 vehicles anually.  This ship can carry 499 passengers and 134 twenty foot vehicles.  There are 45 four-berth cabins and 59 two-berth cabins including 3 ADA cabins(I don't know what that means so I really shouldn't mention it except the brochure did).  There was a cafe, open 24 hours a day, full service dining room, cocktail lounge, movie theater, gift shop, a video arcade, ice and vending machines, lockers and showers for walk-ons, laundry facilities, and all staterooms with private restroom and shower facilities.  A forward lounge on the boat deck as well as an observation lounge on the cabin deck, and an enclosed, heated solarium with the most comfortable easy chairs to sit and enjoy the scenery.  What more can you ask?  And the food was quite good.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Revisiting America

I'm moved to tears most mornings when I walk.  It's like watching a slide show, the scenery changing every few seconds, the clouds moving, making  the sun shine differently on a mountain top, being able to see such distances, cool breezes blowing, and several mornings temps in the upper twenties.  What more can you ask.
My last day in Twin Bridges was not busy, even though I hadn't done much toward packing, etc:.  So, Marsha was going to Butte and asked me to go along for the ride  There was a sale at Herberger's, similar to our Belk, and she had sale coupons.  We went a different route than interstate and the scenery was awesome, yet different than what I'd seen anywhere.  Anyway, we shopped,  another trip to Walmart, then supper at a very nice restaurant, home the interstate route, and tackled my car-loading, with the help of Marsha, and set my clock for five the next morning.
I certainly won't go into detail about leaving because it's the same each time.  My stay has been great, I've met such wonderful people, the town of Twin Bridges has much to offer, and I will miss being there.
I took I-90 West and arrived in Moses Lake, Washington around 4:00 p.m.  which was enough driving for the day and too, realizing I'm going to be a day early catching the ferry to Ketchican. 
Just a half-day driving got me to Bellingham.  I checked out the ferry terminal, found a nice Best Western and settled in for the rest of the day.  Nice restaurant so I didn't have to drive anywhere for supper.
I'm really wondering what the ferry will be like.  The ticket guy said bring plenty of reading material, snacks, and walking shoes, so it looks like my 32 hours will lag a little.  It will be something I haven't done before and it is the way of getting from point A to B, rather than driving the road to Prince Rupert, against my landlady's advice.  Since I'm booked round-trip I'll at least know what to expect on the return trip. I didn't check on Internet-WIFY connections, so I have no idea if I will be able to use my computer.  But, I'll be ready for a fresh start when I get settled in Ketchican.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Revisiting America

Yesterday I met Bill Nicholls at the Museum, it's closed now but Joy Day, sorta in charge of the library and a doer in the town, arranged to open it and have Bill meet me there.  He's 92 years old, very bright and articulate, and knows the history of Twin Bridges and the area quite well.  I will spend more time about him in the book, but we were able to talk for awhile and and I enjoyed the many exhibits in the building,  which in itself has quite a history.
Then I was able to meet Jerry Kustich, partner of Glenn Brackett, at Sweetgrass Rods. I'll let the paragraph on their brochure describe Jerry.  Can be found on a stream testing anything from flies to waders to pentagonal bamboo designs, he has become an advocate for public access to Montana's rivers.  Author, writer, devoted environmentalist, rod designer, and dedicated angler, he spends much time on the road as a fly fishing ambassador lecturing on and representing the ideals for which all serious fly anglers stand.  Most interesting person, well educated, former teacher, painter, and goes by their motto," fishing makes us better rod builders. 
After meeting these two owners of Sweetgrass Rods, I can see where their "Promise" comes from.  "Our rods will always lead to water, enlighten your life, enliven your fishing, and heal your spirit when it is ailing."  And I do have an autographed copy of Jerry's book, "At the Rivers's Edge", which I can hardly wait to read.
I will leave tomorrow for Bellingham, Washington to leave on the Ferry, Friday, for Ketchican.  I have no idea about Internet access, WIFY, or anything like that on the Ferry, so I'm not sure when I will blog next.
You're so well aware, already, that there is no schedule for my blogging. 
This has been my shortest stay anywhere and why I ever thought there would be less to do and write about, I don't know.  It has been short, but great.  I will be in Alaska a full month though, arriving on Sunday, Sept. 25th, and leaving Wednesday, October 26.  UNTIL---------------------------  

Revisiting America

where was I when it disappeared?  I think I was saying it was one of the most picturesque scenes I've seen on the trip.  We talked for several hours non-stop and I left with an autographed copy of her book, "Charles and Me".  Her suggestion was to have me come back and have some pictures made at the schoolhouse that I could use for our book.  She mentioned a friend photographer but not sure if she was in town.  Hope that works out, so far it hasn't, but I'm satisfied that I was able to meet and spend time with her.

Revisiting America

So many people had asked me, "Are you going to meet Pat Shannon"?  My answer was, always, if the situation presents itself.  I had already checked out her book from the library about she and Charles, had been in the Weaving Shop and Norman, the owner, said she came in there just about every day, and this being such a small town I felt like she would know that I was in town and would like to meet her.  I did call and she said she had been expecting me to call so we decided on Friday at 2:00.  She gave very good directions because the last lag was on a dirt road, and the old school house was a little hard to see being so far off the road. 
Rather than go empty handed I went to the grocery and concocted a fruit basket with some sweet treats and was on my way.  What a gracious and interesting lady.  And I'll have to say the library was one of the most beautiful rooms I've ever seen.  Very tall ceilings, this was formerly a one-room school house, the walls lined with mahogany bookshelves, several seating arrangements, tables with books and momentoes, a bath, small kitchenette, and a porch that overlooked the most beautiful river and tree-banks, and her small log cottage in the distance.  It was truly a most

Revisiting America

Marsha (my landlady) and I spent Thursday the 15th in Bozeman.  She had a Dr.'s appointment and needed supplies for the motel.  We left around 9:00, went through Ennis and ate breakfast, my second since I waked up at 3:00 and had eaten around 4:00, then to her appointment.  We were scheduled for pedicures and manicures in the mall for around 2:00, and there being a salon nearby I got a quick hair trim.  With all that done we went to Costco( like Sam's) then Walmart, even a Bed, Bath and Beyond, and finally a wonderful supper at a Mexican restaurant. This was my fourth time in Bozeman and it's such a nice town, so clean and open,  downtown still buzzing, and I've heard around 40,000 people, and something for everyone.  We were both a little weary after the day so that's what I get for not walking and storing up that energy.

Monday, September 19, 2011

Revisiting America

A very  interesting day, Thursday September 14.  Visited  the art gallery here that displays work of local artists including  paintings, weavings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry, quilting, quite nice for such a small town and  they offer many classes of interest to people here.  There are lectures also on different subjects.
Then met Joy Day at Novich Insurance Agency who oversees the Library and she is going to make contact with someone to be there with me on Monday to share about the exhibits.
There are so many talented people doing so many interesting things here.  Visited the Sweetgrass Rod Company and met with the owner, Glenn Burkett, who is known internationally for making Bamboo rods.  He came to this area many years ago, and with a partner started R.L. Winston Rod Company, sold it six years ago and began the Sweetgrass company.  We talked as he worked which happens all the time because they have so many visitors, he said.  He travels to Mainland China twice yearly to select the particular species of bamboo, the rods never break, might began 8-10 rods in a two to three day period, a 6 to 8 month,usually, period from order to finished product, the rods get better with use and age, internationally sold, and this could be the rod-building center of the world.  I was fascinated  after seeing only several steps in the process.  Glenn has quite a crew working with him including a son, Wade, Jerry Kustich who I didn't meet, but will because he has written several books of interest that I should know about, Jason, Fox, Dave Delisi, Mike Watson, Dana Escott, Sam Drukman, Mike Watson, all of these people with different areas of expertise, that work under the guidance of Glenn. 
He is an inspiration in his shop as well as throughout the local community and says his most sacred duty is to preserve the legacy by teaching others the many lessons involved in building bamboo rods

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Revisiting America

My walking route  is through the County Fairgrounds facility, alongside the Beaverhead River, with several different mountain ranges in the distance.  This area has many barns, sheds, stables, stalls, show arenas with bleachers, play area for kids, the town softball fields with bleachers, buildings for inside exhibits, etc: and all so beautifully maintained.  A good three-mile walk to a certain point and back.  See very few walkers or dogs and no horses, bikes, or skate-boarders.  In fact very few people out early in the day.
School has started and there are grades K-12 which surprised me for a town so small, but Marsha said no one would agree to consolidate.  Understandable.  Beautiful almost new school and facilities, football fields, etc:
Visited the Senior Center lunch get-to-gether yesterday at the Wagon Wheel restaurant, where they meet Tuesday's and Friday's.  Everything set up for the group in a separate room, and their usual crowd is around 20.  Five dollar donation and everyone eats, visits, and leaves.  They have guest speakers occasionally but mostly just an outing for everyone.  The meal yesterday was a choice of two different kinds of soup, a salad, Chicken and Noodle casserole, rolls, chocolate cake for dessert.  Very good, and tasty, and for $5.00.
Someone said, " you need to sit by Walt Shular, and I did.  In our conversation he shared that he took Kuralt fishing one time.  But the best part was the "patter" between Walt and Harold Smail.  They could have easily been "stand-up" comics in a show.  Their quips back and forth with one another kept me laughing.
Changed gears, and clothes, and left around 4:00 p.m. going to Bozeman to Montana State University to hear a lecture by Dr. Maya Angelou.  A very large crowd in attendance, and a most appreciative audience.
I didn't realize she was quite so frail, not in looks, but needing assistance to walk on stage, etc:  I've always loved her speaking voice, and she is quite a joker and teaser in her delivery.  But, you really had to listen closely to catch all the little nuances.  It was a beautiful hour though and a reminder of the influence we each make in our journey.  Her idea came from the book of Genesis where God put the rainbow in the sky and that we all have many rainbows and we can be that hope and encouragement someone needs. 
The program began with a wonderful Jazz Quintet and singer, Jeni Fleming.  Absolutely great music.  They would be competition for anyone anywhere.  I had hoped they would close the program as well, but didn't.
Back over the mountains and home by 11:00.  So glad Pat and Fred, and Jo Anne thought of me when the tickets became available.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Revisiting America

My landlords are dear people-Marsha, husband Don, Matt, wife and two sons, and a daughter Robin in Texas.  They are so conscientious about there business, and I almost have to keep the door locked to keep Marsha from coming in and cleaning every hour.  She does the cleaning, booking, cooking for those that are here for extended fishing trips, anything that needs doing, and of course Don is busy with her when he's not a guide for someone fishing.  Matt is the mainstay of the Outfitter-Guide-Fishing service which is the reason so many people visit this area.  They have regulars that come every year.  So, in season they are quite busy. Hopefully Marsha and I are going to get a chance to do something, together, away from the business, before I leave.
Wouldn't you consider the ideal temperature, 40's early morning, 70's around noon and early afternoon, 50's late afternoon and evening?  That has been the case since I've been here.  Perfect for me.  Not a drop of rain in sight, nor predicted.  But extremely dry everyone says and rain is needed.
RUBY VALLEY PARISH, CHURCH OF THE VALLEY, MINISTERS:  ALL THE PEOPLE, PASTOR, BEN J. NARDI.  I like the way the ministers are named, all of us.  And from the looks of the bulletin and the many service organizations listed in a brochure from the library, that is a true statement for this small town.  A very small crowd in church and only one young person, but a lively group of people.  They seemed so excited to be there and be a part of the ministry of the church. Cake and coffee were served after the service and I was able to meet most of the congregation.
I'm amazed at the scope of volunteer and service organizations in this town;  RV service groups, Merchant
groups, Family assistance, Childcare, Military (a nice memorial in the center of town), Books and History groups, Youth activities, Alcohol and Drug Abuse, Education, Senior activities, I'll be attending one of their luncheon meetings today, Riding and Rodeo activities, Technology, Masonic, Nature and Outdoor activities.
Someone responsible for pushing and planning for each of these endeavors.  That takes a lot of people.
There is a Mayor, and five City Councilman.  I haven't seen a policeman, so I don't think there is even one here.  What a great commentary for the town.
 

Revisiting America

 There have been so many coincidences on this trip.  Another being an e-mail from nephew John Schell, a lawyer,  living in D.C. many years, a "hiker", an all-around great person, father, husband, people -person.  "Lou, guess what, I'll be in Bozeman, Montana, September 9, and leave for home on the 10th."
I was invited to the home of his friend and hiking partner, Steve Schnee and wife Jean for a get-together and dinner Friday the 9th.  I also met Clark, Steven, and Modi.  The five men have hiked together many times, this time in Yellowstone, and the Tetons.  What a nice gathering of talented, likable men and Steve's lovely family, wife Jean, daughters, son-in-law and grandson.  The meal was absolutely wonderfully prepared and served by Jean after her being in attendance at a funeral all afternoon, a friend of the family.  She seemed tireless.  I was such a good time.  What an opportunity to make new friends and see Johnny.
I had make reservations to stay in Livingston, so drove on there after the get-to-gether, getting there around 10:00 p.m., making it much closer for my drive to Clyde Park the next morning.
Ellene and I couldn't quite remember the year, we think around 1979, when we came to Clyde Park, Montana and spent the week at the G Bar M ranch, along with Cindy Craig, our leader, Kay Odom, Fletcher( driver extraordinaire) and 8 other GA girls.  I re-visited this ranch, finding the son, Mike, the owner-manager of the ranch who was around 10 or 12  years old at the time we visited so many years ago.  His father, George, had died just three weeks ago, so it was hard for him to talk about a lot of things.  Took a lot of pictures which are quite a different view of things because when we were there that December every thing was covered in snow.  One of the popular things for ladies in this area is quilting so the new lodge, built since we were there, was hosting 18 ladies who come twice a year to quilt, have clinics, and be together.  I said my good-byes and drove back to Twin Bridges, remembering what a wonderful time we had that December.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Revisiting America

Twin Bridges is sorta a "main street" town, maybe 10 blocks long, but side streets on either side of main for two or three blocks.  Some buildings are closed and then some businesses don't open every day.  Several already closed for the winter season.  But I'm right on main street, my motel right next to the sidewalk and then the street, so I can't make a misstep.  There is lots of traffic through here, starting very early and into the night.  There is every thing you need here including a small medical clinic. 
Visited the library which is very nice and checked out several books on the Lewis and Clark expedition as well as the book Kuralt's companion wrote, "Charles and Me", which was a quick read but very interesting.
I had forgotten the history of the Lewis and Clark expedition but there is so much here to remind you.
President Thomas Jefferson realized his dream when he sent these two to explore the lands acquired under the Louisiana Purchase in 1803.  They, along with 45 men, set out in May, 1804 and were commissioned to map the land, hold diplomatic councils with native peoples  study and record everything regarding plants, animals, minerals, soil, and native ways of life.  Together they logged more than 8,000 miles, mapped a swatch of the Rockies and the courses of the Missouri and Columbia rivers,  and wrote the first scientific descriptions of 178 plants and 122 animals. 
This major achievement of crossing the North American continent from the Mississippi to the Pacific by way of the Missouri and Columbia river systems succeeded largely because of the friendship of these two people as well as their talents, abilities, and multiple qualifications. each complimenting the other.

Revisiting America

Dillion is the home of the Beaverhead County Fair, Montana's biggest weekend, and after walking around town, looking in shops, eating lunch, we went to the Fair.  It was big!  I haven't seen that many exhibits ever!  Every kind of livestock imaginable, (how do you judge 50 rabbits), sewing, canning, photography, woodworking, serious art work, baking, etc:  a carnival, and the Jaycees PRCA Rodeo  It was all worth the $5.00 we donated to see everything.  We didn't stay for the rodeo that night but came home and reserved a table at The Old Hotel here in Twin Bridges, known for its food and impeccable service.  The restaurant, housed in one of the oldest buildings in Twin Bridges is a 'bed and breakfast" also.  The food was wonderful and our waitresses were young, adorable ladies.  Janie, the whole affair reminded me so much of "Augusts" in New Orleans.
Saturday, we went to the town of Ennis, about 26 miles from here, to see what a Fly Fishing Festival would offer.  It's assumed that Lewis and Clark and some of their party came through Ennis on their journey.  The gold rush in 1863, in Alder Gulch, brought William Ennis to the area who homesteaded a site along the Madison River that later became the town of Ennis.  It's a smaller town than Dillon but no less active, quaint, and a town of old and new buildings and businesses.  Again, it was fun to go in and out the shops, visited the bank where Matt worked, talked with the Senior Vice-President who said she will sponsor a book-signing for us, visited the many booths set up on the town square related to the Festival.  A clean, well-kept town and a wonderful mix of the old and new. 
We did watch some of the fly-fishing tournament.  And, happened to eat lunch at the G Bar Saloon, recommended by someone at the Farmer's Market when we first got in to town, and got to watch the last half of Auburn's game, what a thriller.  Some of the young people we have met in eateries and other stores have cornered the market on niceness and accomodating people.  It's so wonderful to see that everywhere you go.
We stopped in Virginia City, the oldest town, also capital of the territory before it became a state.  Old, old, but so interesting.  Didn't stay too long there, sorta anxious to get home and do nothing.  I did cook a meal for us that night. 
Knew we wouldn't be able to go to church and get Jo Anne to the airport in time, so we leisurely got ready, packed up, and after checking in at the airport, about an hour and a half away in Belgrade, ate a breakfast at the airport restaurant.  Hated to say goodbye to Jo Anne because we never know how long it will be until the next visit.  But we know we spent a couple of days enjoying one another and  made  good use of our time together. 

Revisiting america

Jo Anne and I had a sweet reunion, not having seen one another for quite a few years.  She's my lovely neice from California, a school teacher, the oldest child of my sister Jo Ethel, married to Russell, mother of one son, Brian, and he has a lovely wife, Noosha.
And what a pleasure to meet Jo Anne's friends, Fred and Pat Cornelious, both retired school teachers, that Jo Anne had taught with in California.
The scenery on the drive to Twin Bridges was just breathtaking, and several times I just wanted to stop, sit, and look for awhile.
I was anxious to get to Twin Bridges though, and landlady Marsha Greenmore was waiting for me to arrive.  Such a nice lady, so accomodating, and after seeing how much stuff we each had, offered another room that was available.  That did work quite well for both of us, we were less crowded but still able to be together.
My first foray is always to the grocery store, and who should spot our Alabama license plate but a nice young man from Birmingham Alabama, Matt Hill, and wife Susanna, she is from this area.  Naturally we talked a bit and found out about each other.  Matt is a Loan Officer with First Madison Valley Bank and Susanna is with the Madisonian , the Ennis, Montana weekly newspaper.  (Hope she'll help set up an interview).  Anyway, nice couple and I hope I see them again. 
Our next decision was to decide what we would do the two days we had to explore the area.
Dillon, Montana, about twenty miles from Twin Bridges, is in Beaverhead County, in the southwest corner of Montana, surrounded on three sides by the Continental Divide, the largest county in Montana, and the land area consists of deep basins separated by towering mountain ranges.  Dillon is the county seat and major trading area for over 13,000 people in Beaverhead and western Madison counties.  It's the headquarters of the Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest, the Dillon Field Office of the Bureau of Land Management, the University of Montana Western, and the National Franchise Office of Great Harvest Bread Company.  Dillon also forms the center of Montana's largest cattle and hay producing areas, and is one of Montana's top agricultural centers.  Plus, dozens of mountain lakes, great  fishing rivers and streams, abundant wildlife,
hiking and snowmobile trails, ghost towns to visit, places to dig for crystals, and the best fisheries anywhere, just ask the people who return year after year to fish.

Revisiting America

I do begin with an apology to all my Ely friends and offer an excuse however legitimate.  I've started blogging several times only to have it just disappear, not because I've done something wrong, but because my access weakens and my blog is gone.  This will be an attempt to catch up and hope all will go well as I blog.
My first night out after leaving Ely became an adventure in itself, trying to find a place to stay.  All around Bismark, at least a hundred miles in every direction,  the motels were booked.  The young man at one of the motels where I stopped said FEMA personnel, National Guard, etc: were out in force because of the flooding and fires prior to the flooding.  Anyway he called the Prarie Knights Casino on an Indian reservation and booked me a room eventhough it meant going almost fifty miles out of the way.
A beautiful high-end resort and casino but I only saw the lobby and my room.  It was late and I was a little anxious about the whole thing.
The next morning was so foggy I had to actually follow a car out of the parking lot to find my was back to the main highway..
My time on the road certainly wasn't wasted, I make good time, but it was a rather long two days.  My next night I spent in Livingston, Montana, very close to Bozeman, but it was late and I absolutely couldn't go any further, especially couldn't go in on Jo Anne's friends unannounced.
My Onstar is absolutely marvelous.  They probably say each time we connect, "here is that crazy Alabama lady, who wants to deal with her"?  They have worn out the phrase, "you have left the planned route", but deal with me until I'm on track again.  I know it's nothing personal.

Monday, August 29, 2011

Revisiting America

I will finish my Ely blog today because I won't have a chance to blog before next week, and I don't trust myself to remember names and details. 
I have back-slidden (please English teachers don't say anything) from the Baptist church apparently because I've let convenience dictate where I go, and what could be easier that walking a block to church.  I visited the Lutheran and Presbyterian churches again, heard different ministers, and had a chance to say good-bye to people I had met.  Again, both churches good crowds, good messages, and good music.  A Finnish choir sang at the Lutheran service.  At least some of the verses I couldn't understand so I assumed it was sung in Finnish.  Am I showing my ignorance here?
After church my landlord's and good friends Ward and Muffin Nelson and I went to lunch and this gave me a chance to thank them for their many kindnesses. 
The rest of Sunday afternoon was spent packing and getting things ready to leave. 
Kevin Bradley came this morning and helped me load the car.  Kevin helped me move in so I had opportunity to see him again.  I know you keep wondering why I have so much to move.  Remember this isn't a week-long trip, but a year's worth, and I did bring clothes for that amount of time, plus my kitchen.
My sister Shirley, in Birmingham, is a Social Worker with Hospice and one of her co-workers/overseers of  Shirley's patients is Dr. Elizabeth Kvale.  They had been talking and Dr. Elizabeth mentioned being in Minnesota.  "Where", Shirley asked.  In Tower about 20 miles from Ely.
Of course Shirley couldn't believe the coincidence.  Anyway, Dr. Elizabeth's mother Janice is spending the summer in Tower, which the family has done for many years.  That prompted a visit, so after finally contacting Janice, we met for lunch today and enjoyed talking about my trip, our families, etc:  Janice writes short stories and articles and gave me an interesting place on-line to get some tips on writing, and I know the "choir" is saying "AMEN".   Anyway, Janice is a very talented lady, having taught at the University of Texas. She is a nurse by profession.
Angela and I are going to get Chinese "take-out" for supper and say our good-byes.  (The Oriental Orchid has good food because I've done this before).  She has been a most special lady in my stay in Ely, introducing people, facilitating events, recommending books and places.  So nice to know someone "in the know".  I called her my social co-ordinator.  Wonderful Christian lady, and remember me telling you when we first met how beautiful she is, inside and out.  We will keep in touch.  She will spend her winter months in New York, and may even come to Chatom, I hope so.
Another fun thing today.  I had to have a picture with a canoe on top of my car.  So, what better place than Piragis Northwoods Company, Canoe Trip Outfitters.  The manager, Michelle, took me around to the complex where Christina and Jamie, so easily, picked up a canoe, put it on top of my car, and we made pictures.  Thank you so much.  I didn't want to ask because I didn't want it to be any trouble, but this is what they do and it was effortless for them.
If I have forgotten some people, places and events, it wasn't intentional.  I have done so much here and feel like I know Ely real well,  I know it's a place I want to re-visit.





Revisiting America

"It seems to me, I've heard that song before".  Well, you have heard this one several times before.  Packing up and leaving one place for another is hard, not physically, but leaving all the people and things I've become attached to.  Especially blogging the last time and wondering if I have really captured the true personality of the people and places.
I remember my first drive down main street and did I wonder about Ely.  I think in my mind I described Ely as bedraggled ( hope that's a word).  But that description has certainly changed, not that anything has been done to change the appearance, but just being in the town, seeing what makes it tick, and realizing how hard the people work at making this a "Number One Town".  I told someone, the town isn't decorated, doesn't put on airs, it's just what it is.  A small town, struggling at times to stay alive, but showing off all its  natural beauty, abundance of pure water,  game fish and wild life,  scenery unlike any other place, and many, many talented and celebrated people.  I like Ely! 
It was a pleasure meeting Geri Fisher and Gene Domich last Tuesday evening for "supper" at Rockwood and then crossing the street to sit outside and listen to Pat Surface and the Boundary (Muffin, I spelled it right this time) Water Boys.  My, they are a talented group of musicians, playing a mix of Christian, gospel, and oldie songs.  Delighted to meet Pat Surface and have my picture made with him.
He's rather tall.
And this same Gene Domich invited me out to his "compound" Friday afternoon.  I wanted a picture of me in a canoe, and that's just what happened.  After walking around and viewing his home, the other old log buildings, the renovated house boat, the sauna, and the beautiful wooded land, surrounded by the bluest water, a beautiful dock-boat-house entertaining area, Gene pushed off a canoe, I climbed in, he instructed me how to hold the paddle, and a picture was made.  Then we took a ride in his "yellow" boat to another island and he filled up his water jugs with fresh, cold spring water.  What a delightful way to spend an afternoon, and for all my folks at home that know I never put my foot in the water, what do you think?  Gene, thanks for such a nice-looking, retired, gentleman spending an afternoon with a little old lady from Alabama.
And another very pleasant time was spent with Cheryle Dochat visiting friend Bunny Wiersema at The University of Minnesota Remote Station, Wilderness Research Center.  See the many wonderful things I get to do and see because someone knows someone!  Bunny and her husband Dale are the care-takers of this facility which was owned by the Hubachek family and now the University of Minnesota.  Bunny gave a very good tour and explanation of how the facility is used, how it's fulfilling the wishes of the Hubachek family, and its plans for the future.  It was a good time for friends Bunny and Cheryle to visit and a reminder for Cheryle of the times she spent there in her childhood because her father was involved in the construction of the many buildings.  Quaint cabins, a beautiful lodge, animals like deer, ducks, woodchuck,  ravens, most named by Bunny, the beautiful lake, and tall, tall pines, created such a peaceful scene. 
I musn't forget my meeting with Bill Campbell, attorney in Ely, who was so instrumental in the negotiations for Kuralt to buy the radio station here,  WELY Radio.  As a result of this they became very good friends and fishing buddies.  Bill said they made many trips to Montana together to fish.  Bill was so pleasant, a wonderful speaking voice that would rival Kuralt, and from all I've heard, a very successful, outstanding lawyer.  He even shared the best and most scenic route for me to take to Twin Bridges.
I would loved to have had more time for him to share more about his career in New York, Washington D.C., and Nebraska.
My friend, Mike Hillman came by the house and brought me an autographed copy of his book, "Ely Lives"  Her people, Her Stories.  Can hardly wait to read this real story of Ely.
I'm meeting someone for lunch so I must stop and get ready, but will finish later.  Please excuse the mistakes because I don't have time to proof.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Revisiting America

Today has started out as one of those beautiful, very cool, windy days, sun so bright it's blinding, even wore a light jacket which had to come off about half way through my walk.  I know this is part of what keeps people here, or coming back year after year.  It's August all over the world but weather-wise here it could be October.  You can tell I'm enjoying the weather.
The old saying, "when in doubt talk about the weather".  I do have more to say than that, but everyone knows how much I love the cool-cold.
I visited both the Grace Lutheran and First Presbyterian churches again Sunday. 
Robert Jalonen, AiM,( I'm not sure what those letters mean), was in charge of the service, pastor on vacation, and I was so impressed with the message, the over-all worshipful atmosphere.  The bulletin reminded the different Committees to remember the deadline for Newsletter reports.  I would love to have a copy.  Recognized so many people that I've met in town or at various functions.
The First Presbyterian ladies of the church presented a narrative, written by one of the ladies of the church, beginning in Luke 1 with the birth of John the Baptist, to the death, burial, and resurrection of Jesus Christ.  It was so well written and presented, scriptures to read if you chose, but there to document and reinforce the dialogues, hymns appropriate for the scriptures.  Very dramatic and moving, and a beautiful reminder of what Jesus Christ did for each of us.  Spoke with Mike Rouse, the pianist, who
is in charge of the music and does a beautiful job.  A very talented musician you could tell from listening to him play.
Then, on to lunch and Mike Hillman coming over to the house at 2:00.  Everyone said, 'He's your man", and they were right.  So delightful, gifted, well-spoken, sincere, likeable, I just can't think of enough adjectives to describe him.  He's very well educated, a story teller, historian, home-town person, you can tell in conversation how much he cares for the well-being of the people and the preservation of those things that make Ely, Minnesota so special.  A musician, actor, interpreter, teacher, tutor.  You get the message, but most of all he says, "a writer".  He seems so content with his place in this world. Two hours passed so quickly, but I will have another opportunity to visit because I'm fixing supper for him this evening.     
I've had several concersations with my landlady in Ketchican and her advice for my drive there is to
leave Twin Bridges earlier than planned because of the uncertainty of the weather this time of year, and the fact that I will be traveling alone.  So, it's possible I will shorten my stay in Montana, moving everything up a week or so.  That's the plan now, and she will help make arrangements for the ferries, to and from Ketchican.  Appreciate her concern so much.
Spent a wonderful hour this morning with Linda Fryer, Administrative Director, Ely Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center.  I can see why she has that position.  There were people in the office seeking plans for hiking, portaging, camping, etc: and she was able to offer so much material and know-how.  A delightful person, quick smile, good sense of humor, I would say an asset to Ely and the Chanber.  I wouldn't want to take away from the other ladies because they were assisting with the information also.  We talked about her visits with Kuralt, how much he loved his privacy here, interested in the whole community so much he bought the radio station to keep it from closing, loved the people.  It was his kind of town.  There are pictures in her office of his stay in Ely and she's going to send me copies as well as some quotes he wrote for their brochures. 
I haven't found anyone that didn't like Kuralt.
I spent a little time yesterday tending to myself, a doctor's visit, which is so rare for me.  A nagging headache and a blood-pressure check which was a little high, gave me a little concern. So rather than leave Ely wondering, visited the Clinic-Hospital here and saw Dr. Edward Ciriacy Jr.  Very thorough check-up, even did blood work, whatever that's called, and pronounced me very well physically, for a 78 year old roaming the country by herself.  I was glad that I went and I'm sure the people of Ely appreciate the wonderful facility and the very capable staff.  I was impressed.
Late yesterday afternoon met Angela, her friend, Gene Domich, and native Elyian, and Geri Fisher, a friend at the Rockwood restaurant for supper.  We sat very comfortably outside to eat and enjoyed a meal of salad, garlic potatoes, and baked walleye, apparantly the fish of Minnesota.  Very good food, and the idea of sitting outside to eat, August the 23rd, no bugs maybe just a few flies, wow!  Enjoyed getting to know Gene and Geri, very interesting people.
Then we went across the street, several are blocked off so people can sit, with lawn chairs Gene had brought and  listened to a band , bass guitar, percussion, guitar-singer, steel guitar and fiddle, wonderful musicians, good music, the street blocked off so people could sit, and an enjoyable two hours of fun and music.  This happens all summer in town, with different groups playing.
Read a quote from the Ely Summer Times, "What happens in Ely stays with you forever".  I believe it will, and now with my time here coming to a close, I wonder if I've done enough to really capture what Ely is all about.  I believe so.  But there will be more! 














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Saturday, August 20, 2011

Revisiting America

I walked out the door this morning for my usual walk, in shorts and short sleeve shirt, to 48 degree temperature.  Did I go back in for a jacket? Well, NO.  How wonderful to be able to walk and still be cool.  That has been the usual temperature most of the week, cool in the morning, warm at noon, then cooling off again in late afternoon, most always with a gentle breeze.  I can feel fall in the air here.
Have you heard me say this before?  "I've met the nicest people, they're kind, warm, go out of their way to make you feel welcome, and include you in goings on".  It happens over and over again, every where I go.
Such was the case yesterday afternoon when Muffin Nelson called and invited me out to their cabin, or cottage, for a boat ride and supper.  In Maine it was cottage but I'm not sure whether it's cabin or cottage here.  Anyway, it's their home now, having moved from town in the house I'm renting, to the lake.
Remember I had introduced you to Muffin and Ward, my landlords, earlier.
Muffin gave me excellent directions, which I tended to mess up regardless.  Fletcher always said, "whatever direction Lou is walking she considers, North."  That says it all.  First of all, I went out of town past the Bear Center instead of the Wolf Center.  There were detours, but I saw no detours.  What was supposed to be nine miles was getting longer by the minute.  So a phone call to Muffin put me back on track, and especially after she explained that either way you could get to their house, I just took the long way.  But most of the way was by a lake so the drive was beautiful.  You know what a "stickler" I am for time, I got there on time even with all the little scenic tours (that's what I call my mistakes). 
Plans had changed and we were going to Ward's mother's (sorta the family vacation home for many years) home because  relatives were visiting and it was an opportunity to see them.  I had met Ward's mother earlier, Eleanor Nelson, at the Relay for Life Walk, and she is a delightful lady.
 We motored, or boated, (what do you say?) anyway we were in a motorboat and the ride was awesome, and if I haven't mentioned it  before, I'm not exactly a fan of the water.  We docked (that is a correct term) at the Burntside Lodge for a look.  So many people had said it was a must see and I agree.
The Lodge dates back to 1913, picture perfect, made from huge lodge-pole pine, rustic, yet classic, huge dining area, but cabins all around for lodging.  I could stay there.  This prestigious resort has been written up in Fodor's, 1000 places you must see before you die, Gourmet Magazine, Wine Spectator Magazine, Country's Best Log Homes and others.  It's advertised as "lakeside dining, outstanding cuisine, fine wines, exquisite desserts".  I met the owners, and I didn't write down their names, I'm sorry, but they were most gracious, and mentioned Kuralt being there.
I didn't miss the outstanding cuisine at the lodge because I sampled the same at Eleanor's house.  Wonderful steaks, potatoes, salad, bread, and fruit tart for dessert.  Burstside Lodge couldn't have been any better.
Met Ward's aunt, sister in-law,  her son and his girlfriend, cousins, all so nice and interesting, easy to be with, and they seemed interested in my adventure also.  Thanks Muffin and Ward for such a nice outing.
Because it was rather late and quite dark we were driven back to point A rather than taking the boat.
And, I got home without any scenic turns, even the shorter route, and called Mufin and Ward to let them know I was safe.
And now, I have the rest of the day to do a few chores, visit several people,  and be ready for a special meeting with Mike Hillman.  He is mentioned so much in the chapter on Ely, Minnesota.  I've been looking forward to this because everyone has said, " you must talk with Mike Hillman".  I'm so excited.
Have a good day everyone! 
   

Friday, August 19, 2011

Revisiting America

On opposite ends of town you can visit The North American Bear Center, which I visited last week and mentioned in the blog, and The International Wolf Center, which I visited Wednesday.  Ely is the home of both and from the looks of the  crowds I've seen at both centers, they are a "must see" attraction for visitors. I enjoyed them both. 
 The Wolf Center is described as the world's premier wolf interpretative facility giving the opportunity
to observe the resident wolf pack and learn about their natural history, as well as tour the "Wolves and WHumans" exhibit to learn about the wolf's hunting and feeding behaviors, go on an evening howling expedition, or put on snowshoes and follow the predator's winter tracks.  There are videos, talks, demonstrations, day programs, and other adventures that make a visit worthwhile.
  I was interested too in seeing Vermillion Community College called The Boundry Waters College.
While I'm at this point let me explain about the Boundry Waters. 
When I began looking for a place to live in Ely for the month of August the initial's BWCAW were everywhere.  Well, they stand for Boundry Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.  This is a unique area located in the northern third of the Superior National Forest in the northeastern Minnesota.  This area is over 1 million acres in size, extends nearly 150 miles along the International Boundry adjacent to Canada's Quetico Provincial Park, and is bordered on the west by Voyageurs National Park.   The BWCAW contains over 1200 miles of canoe routes, 12 hiking trails and over 2000 designated campsites.  Visitors can experience the spirit of the French Voyageurs of 200 years ago by canoeing, portage, and camping.  Wilderness offers one freedom to pursue an experience of solitude, challenge,
and personal integration with nature.
Certainly one doesn't just walk in, hop a canoe and push off.  The Basics must be tended to such as the proper permits, reservations if overnight, fees, whatever is required for your visit. 
The Boundry Waters was recognized for recreational opportunities in 1926, named the Superior Roadless Area in 1938, the BWCA in 1958, and federally designated under The Wilderness Act in 1964, and finally in 1978, by the Wilderness Act, becoming the The Boundry Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.  The Act was established to provide specific guidance for managing, protecting, maintaining, preventing, and enhancing this million plus acres.  
The BWCAW contains the highest point in Minnesota:  Eagle Mountain, (2,301 feet).
There are no roads, no buildings, no sign that human beings have ever been there, except for Indian pictographs on some of the rocks,  and footprints on some of the portages, maybe signs of old campfires on some of the islands.  No motors, no airplanes, no generators, no cans or bottles permitted, unlawful to cut down a tree or even to cut off a bough or chip away bark.  Groups of more than ten canoeists must split up and go in different directions.  All of this is done to preserve and protect, while being enjoyed by many. 
I visited the Kawishiwi Ranger District Office here in Ely that is responsible for the care of the BWCAW.  They employ over 250 prople in the summer and have duties that range from fires to timber sales.  What a responsibility!
I wouldn't dare guess the number of "outfitters" that are in the area.  An outfitter can supply you, prepare you, teach you, and completely outfit you with the equipment, maps, food and techniques you'll need to enjoy a custom-designed trip that fits any ambition or ability.  Anything from a short, relaxing trek with emphasis on leisurely fishing, or a challenging two-week adventure covering miles of territory.  They're willing to share their expertise and advice so you'll make your trip with a sense of confidence
and peace of mind.  Now back to Vermillion Community College.
The College was founded in 1922, was ranked in the top 15 Community Colleges in the nation, has a student-faculty ratio of 22 to 1, has a rich mix of students, staff, faculty, and individuals that work within the college system, takes advantage of their location to offer many classes concerning Natural Resources Management, as well as Liberal Arts and Sciences, Business, Management and Tourism and Protection, Preservation, and Recreation.  I talked with Tommy Bennet, Recruiting Coordinator, and there are around 600 students enrolled in the 2-year programs, "some stay for three years," he said.  There are residential dorms also, which is a different concept from most 2-year colleges.  Students come from all over the world.  Why wouldn't you want to study in such a beautiful setting?
I am still meeting people that knew Kuralt and have some times set up to meet with them.